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It goes without saying that proper maintenance is key to getting the maximum potential out of your air-powered tools and compressor. Developing (and sticking to) a maintenance routine can save not only time, but also money. That's why our friends at RolAir developed the following air compressor maintenance guide, as originally published on their Zero Sick Days blog.
Keep in mind, RolAir advises that proper safety equipment should always be worn while servicing your air compressor. Do not start, operate or service your machine until you read and fully understand the owner’s manual.
The following chart specifies routine air compressor maintenance procedure, organized by required service intervals.
CHECK OIL LEVEL: Recommended service interval - daily.
Prior to daily operation, make a habit of checking the air compressor's oil level for the compressor pump and engine (if compressor is gas-powered). Every direct-drive, hand-carry air compressor has a dipstick to check and maintain the proper oil level. The dipstick also functions as a crankcase vent. NEVER operate a direct-drive unit without the factory-supplied dipstick. RolAir belt-driven air compressors are equipped with a sight gauge to make the task of checking oil levels easier. Always maintain the oil level to read 2/3 full on the sight gauge.
DRAIN MOISTURE FROM TANK: Recommended service interval - daily.
One or more drain valves are installed to allow moisture to be drained on a daily basis from the compressor storage tank(s). Open drains slowly to prevent scale, rust or debris from becoming expelled at a high rate of speed.
INSPECT AIR FILTERS: Recommended service interval - daily.
When checking filters, make sure the filter housing is structurally sound and the element is intact and free of dust and debris. If you need to replace the filter, you can obtain the part number from your owner’s manual.
CHECK FOR UNUSUAL NOISE OR VIBRATION: Recommended service interval - daily.
While the air compressor is running, listen for any rattling or knocking sounds. It is best to perform this step after checking the belt tension, bolts and condition of vibration pads.
INSPECT BELT GUARD: Recommended service interval - daily.
Ensure the belt guard cover is firmly in place and screws are tight. Check for cracks or compromised mounting holes.
CHECK FOR (AIR OR OIL) LEAKS: Recommended service interval - daily.
To check for air leaks, isolate the compressor by removing any air hoses and allowing it to fill up to top pressure. When the compressor shuts off or idles down, observe the tank pressure gauge. Keeping in mind that pressure will drop slightly as the internal air temperature decreases; if the needle drops continuously, a leak is present somewhere in the system. If you can’t locate by sound, coat all fittings in a soap and water solution and watch for bubbling.
To check for oil leaks, watch for pooling oil around the base of the pump and engine (if applicable). Also, if you find yourself having to refill the crankcase frequently, the compressor may be passing an excessive amount of oil. In any case, take the compressor to an authorized service center to diagnose and repair the issue properly.
CLEAN THE AIR COMPRESSOR'S EXTERIOR: Recommended service interval - weekly, as required.
Allow the air compressor to cool to room temperature before attempting to clean. Disconnect electric models from the power source. Wipe down exterior surfaces with a damp cloth. Dry thoroughly prior to operation. DO NOT spray or allow water into motorized components.
CHECK CONDITION OF VIBRATION PADS: Recommended service interval - weekly.
Ensure all vibration pads are in place, and the air compressor sits in a level position. If vibration pads are worn or missing, refer to your owner’s manual for replacement part numbers.
TIGHTEN/RE-TORQUE BOLTS: Recommended service interval - weekly.
Ensure all bolts are tight. With the air compressor at room temperature, re-torque pump bolts according to the specs in the following table:
CHECK BELT TENSION: Recommended service interval - weekly.
Use the diagram below to determine how much deflection is acceptable. If you determine that the belt is loose, obtain a replacement belt or Drive Pulley, and make adjustments as needed. To adjust belt tension, follow these steps:
CHECK OPERATION OF SAFETY VALVE: Recommended service interval - monthly.
Locate safety relief valve (shown below) and perform a visual inspection. Look for any signs of corrosion or physical damage. With air in the system, slowly and carefully pull the ring to actuate the valve. You should hear a loud hiss of escaping air. If you are unable to open the valve, it will likely need to be replaced.
CHANGE COMPRESSOR OIL: Recommended service interval - monthly.
CLEAN/CHANGE AIR FILTER: Recommended service interval - monthly.
Clean air filters using low pressure, compressed air to remove dust and debris. If the filter cannot be cleaned sufficiently, or shows wear, obtain a replacement using the part number in your owner’s manual.
PERFORM PUMP-UP TIME TEST: Recommended service interval - monthly.
With the tank gauge at 0 PSI, and air line(s) disconnected, close drain valve(s) and record the amount of time it takes to build tank pressure. Periodically, test your air compressor against this pump-up time, to determine if it is operating correctly. If the time test is considerably off, contact your local service center to evaluate your compressor.
CHECK OPERATION OF SYSTEM CONTROLS: Recommended service interval - quarterly.
Keeping the process as simple as possible, run the compressor and force it to cycle a few times, by opening the drain valves slightly. While it’s cycling, watch the tank pressure gauge to make sure the needle is rising and falling as pressure increases and decreases.
If it’s an electric model, listen for a brief hiss of air from the pressure switch when the motor shuts off. This signifies that any air caught between the check valve and pump has been evacuated, making for a smooth start-up when the motor kicks back in. The motor will start up again when the tank pressure drops to a certain level, depending on model.
If it’s a gas model, you can expect to hear the engine speed decrease when the compressor has reached its top pressure setting. You’ll also hear air being discharged from the pilot valve. When the tank pressure reaches the lower setting, the pilot valve will activate the throttle control, which increases the engine RPM and starts the cycle over again.
With these tips, and a good understanding of your air compressor, you should be ready for the long-haul.
~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot
An old saying claims, “good fences make good neighbors.” That may be true, but good fences also provide better security, privacy, and can add aesthetic value to a property. Fence building can be time-consuming and costly, which gives all the more reason you want a fence to be durable and long-lasting. Before you get started, carefully consider these four main areas encompassing the fence building process: planning, designing, material selection and assembly.
Four Important Steps for Building the Perfect Fence:
Planning: Before you start to build, you'll need a plan. Familiarize yourself with local building code, ordinances, and HOA policies if applicable, before purchasing materials or hiring a fencing contractor. Be sure your plans also account for any underground utilities or invisible fences, to prevent damage and costly repairs to these fixtures. Have your property line surveyed, to make sure your fence is indeed YOUR fence. The planning phase typically goes tandem with design, as in many ways, each step relies on the other.
Designing Your Fence: Technically part of the planning phase, designing your fence can be stressful if you don't know what type of fencing you want. Consider your original intent for installing a fence. Is it for privacy, are you looking to confine a pet, or is there some other reason? A privacy fence is typically at least six feet tall, with minimal spacing between boards. Privacy fences can also serve as good pet fences, but may be more than you technically need - depending on the size of your pet. On the other hand, farming and livestock fences are completely different in form and function, but serve an important purpose too. Whatever the intended function of your fence, always design for the terrain you'll be building it on.
Selecting Materials: When it comes to material selection, we don't recommend cutting corners to save cost. Fencing is expensive enough to install on its own - you don't want to do it twice. For wood, use a species of treated lumber that ages well in your region. For wire fencing, make sure the metal is galvanized or coated to prevent rust and corrosion.
The same rules apply for fencing fasteners, regardless of whether it's a nail, Scrail, screw or staple. For wire fencing to wood, we recommend one of Fasco's fence stapling systems. For traditional wood, or composite fence boards, consider using a Fasco Scrail, as it offers the versatility of a framing nail, but features the added holding strength produced by the thread of a screw. In damp or coastal regions, you may even opt for stainless steel Scrails, to further guarantee no rust and corrosion developing over time.
Building Your Fence: The big day is here, it's finally time to build. Keep in mind, a well-built fence can last 20+ years with proper maintenance. The fence building process is typically divided into three or four steps, depending on the type of fence being built. For this article, we'll primarily focus on the three main steps to build the fence's framework.
The first step in building your perfect fence, mark the location for each fence post. The general rule is to space your fence posts between six and eight feet, but different terrain or design parameters may dictate differently. Always start with your corner(s), or end post.
Once the area has been marked, the posts are ready to be set. Keep in mind, setting each fence post (especially corner, end and load bearing posts) involves burying at least one-third of the post's total length in the ground, so be sure to treat the bottom portion of each post with a wood preservative before burying. Using a post hole digger, dig a straight hole to your desired depth, and line the bottom of the hole with gravel to help with drainage. You can use a level to ensure the posts are straight and aligned. Brace the post with either cement, dirt or some other holding material, and allow each post to settle for two or three days before adding the rest of the fence.
After your posts have properly settled into the ground, you're now able to begin adding rails. Your top and bottom rails will always go first, followed by any remaining rails - or a cross frame for certain privacy fences. Rails are added by simply nailing them to the posts (typically with a fencing nail gun), attaching with a bracket or block, or by cutting a grove for the rail. It's important to ensure the top and bottom rails are always attached the same distance apart on each post. After measuring and positioning the first section, cut a measuring stick that equals the distance between these rails. You can use this measuring stick on the rest of the fence to maintain the same measurement on each post. It is also recommended that the bottom rail be placed at least two inches from the ground to reduce the potential for moisture damage. The positioning of any remaining rails ultimately depends on the design selected for your fence - basket weave, picket, vertical or horizontal placement typically covers most fence designs. After all the posts and rails are in place, treat the wood with paint, preservative or weatherproofing for a long-lasting finish.
Need some extra advice? Click here to see Fasco America's full white paper on "Five Important Tips For Building The Perfect Fence," or read more in their "Good Fences Make Good Neighbors, But What Makes A Good Fence?" blog article.
~The Team At Nail Gun Depot
A common question we get this time of year, "what fastener should I use for deck boards?" Most contractors will tell you the short answer, to use a deck screw; but regional conditions and new decking materials may expand - or narrow - the list of suitable fasteners for your deck boards. Take a look at our deck fastener checklist, and learn what options work best for your decking project.
What type of fastener can I use for a traditional wood deck board?
Standard wood decking is pretty versatile in how it can be assembled to the deck frame. The least expensive option for installing deck boards is to use framing nails, though we don't necessarily recommend it. You'll see a lot of builder-grade decks assembled with framing nails, which remains the most efficient method for installation, but can lead to some maintenance headaches down the road. Over time, the nails will start to work themselves out of the wood board, which greatly compromises holding strength - and can even make the deck dangerous to walk across if nails begin to protrude from the surface. For decking boards, we recommend using a deck screw or Scrail. Both the screw and Scrail offer improved holding strength thanks to a threaded shank, which keeps the fastener locked into place - and can be reversed, allowing for easy removal if a board needs to be replaced.
What coating, color or material should I choose for my decking fasteners?
Deck boards come in a variety of materials, colors and sizes. Choosing the right type of fastener is only part of the process, you'll also need to figure out the size and variation of whichever fastener you choose. Collated deck screws are available in several different colors, coatings and materials. If you're installing composite deck boards, we recommend color matching your composite deck screws or BeckDeck Scrails. In some damp or coastal regions, or for decks that are exposed to weather regularly, you may opt for a stainless steel deck screw or Scrail to prevent rusting and corrosion over time. Most standard wood deck screws by Senco or Quik Drive will come with a basic weather guard coating as-is, if you don't opt for something higher end.
Should I use hidden deck fasteners?
A growing trend in designer decking, hidden deck fasteners and hidden deck screws are rapidly increasing in popularity. Hidden deck fasteners are more luxury than necessity, but for high end decks, they may prove worth the extra investment. The beauty to using hidden deck fasteners, you have a clean deck surface with no blemishes or gaps. There are currently a few options available, if you're looking toward a hidden deck fastening solution. For example, Senco offers the Mantis System, which combines elements of a deck screw with the collation of a nail. Senco Mantis Hidden Deck Fasteners are held in place with a clip, which allows the fastener to be driven into the base of a deck board at an angle. CAMO also offers a hidden deck screw system, which eliminates the need for clips, but also installs the deck fastener at a similar angle. Using a hidden fastening system creates even spacing between boards, and leaves the deck surface unblemished. However, a blemish-free deck surface does come at a cost, as hidden fastening systems typically command a higher price and require longer installation time.
How many fasteners do I need for my decking project?
Different fastening systems may require different quantities of fastener to complete your deck. On average, we've found you can complete around 100 square feet of decking with approximately 450 deck screws, using two screws per joist. The true number of deck screws required ultimately depends on the width of your deck facing, and the spacing between your joists. A 3-1/2" face with 12" on center joists will run closer to 700 deck screws for 100 square feet; whereas a 5-1/2" face with 24" on center joists will only require about 225 deck screws per 100 square feet. Knowing your joist spacing and facing width will help narrow the project estimate window tremendously.
Ready to get to work? Feel free to nail a message to our board if you have a question or comment about deck fastening or decking tools.
~The Team At Nail Gun Depot
Senco is taking a big step into uncharted territory, as the company launches its full line of plastic composite finish nails and staples, as well as the tools to run these composite fasteners. A completely new concept for a brand recognized for its steel nails and staples, Senco composite fasteners are 100 percent metal-free, formed from a blend of polymer resin and fiberglass. And, while these collated plastic fasteners may sound secondary compared to their steel and metal counterparts, the reality is quite opposite.
The plastic polymer base for Senco composite fasteners allows these nails and staples to do some pretty neat things - things your average metal fastener can't do. These composite fasteners can be sanded, shaped, and cut without damage to router bits, cutting blades or sanding belts. Senco also claims they offer "superior holding power, excellent processing characteristics, and long-term resistance to chemicals, sunlight, and moisture." A major advantage we see at first look, no rust, corrosion or staining with these plastic nails and staples.
But what about durability and strength?
According to Senco, their composite finish nails hold up to two-times stronger than similar sized steel nails, BUT Senco also notes adhesives will do the heavy lifting after curing. Our take, these fasteners - particularly the composite finish and brad nails - are ideal for holding materials in place while adhesives cure. Even better, the non-metal material can be sanded or cut once the adhesive has completely set; meaning you can either leave them in place without fear of corrosion, or sand them down without damaging your tool.
Other benefits these Senco plastic composite fasteners offer, no clamping set up time or waiting, they eliminate the drudgery of removing problematic fasteners and marring wood surfaces, have zero adverse affect on final product appearance and performance, all while reducing wear on sanding and cutting equipment.
So what exactly are composite fasteners good for?
These plastic fasteners are designed for more than meets the eye. As mentioned before, composite finish nails and staples are perfect for use with woodworking adhesives, to provide a temporary hold until the adhesive cures. Professionals and hobbyists alike benefit from the ability of the fastener to be sanded, shaped and cut. Senco 15 gauge and 18 gauge composite finish nails are also ideal for use with CNC machines for cutting, carving, drilling and machining a variety of materials without damaging router bits and saw blades. Multiple pieces of material can be stacked and attached to the spoil board with composite fasteners, to increase production output.
Senco 15 gauge composite finish nails are perfect for use with Cellular PVC adhesives, to provide a temporary hold until the adhesive cures. Industrial fabricators benefit from the use of composite nails in the production of pergolas, arbors, trellises, custom columns, flower boxes, vents, window trim, copulas and laminations.
You may also find these composite fasteners ideal for lumber tagging. Composite fasteners will not degrade in sunlight, high heat conditions, or cause interference in microwave and RF environments - assuring a long-term, problem-free tagged product.
What tool do you need, to use a Senco composite fastener?
Along with the plastic composite nails and staples, Senco released seven tools, each designed to run collated composite fasteners exclusively. A finish nailer, brad nailer, hammer tacker, squeeze stapler, two 16 gauge air staplers, and a 20 gauge pneumatic stapler to be precise. Remember, you CAN NOT use a regular nailer or stapler for these plastic composite fasteners - the driving power is too strong.
We'll go in-depth with these composite fastening tools in a later post, but for now, here's a list with links below:
Will plastic composite fasteners be the next new thing?
The verdict: too soon to tell. Several competing products from brands such as RAPTOR® and OMER have been available for a while. However, these new Senco composite fasteners may hold two huge advantages over existing composite fastening products. Number one, the name. Senco is a household name in fastening. Adding Senco branding to these products may make the difference, as they make their mainstream debut. Woodworkers and fabricators who have never heard about composite fasteners will suddenly have a plethora of knowledge at their fingertips, as word spreads throughout the fastening industry. Number two, quality. If Senco composite fasteners can withstand the test of time, we should expect to see them around for the long haul.
To reiterate key features and benefits for Senco composite fasteners:
At first glance, Senco composite fasteners look to fill a big gap in the collated fastening marketplace. Would we recommend them, you bet.
~The Team At Nail Gun Depot
Losing your March Madness basketball bracket? Nail Gun Depot wants to give you a second chance, during Framing March Madness.
Framing March Madness is only on Nail Gun Depot - and only available for a limited time. The stakes are high, but the rewards are sweet.
How do you play? The rules are simple. Order your favorite framing nailer on Nail Gun Depot. We'll tally up tools sold from each of the four main framing nailer categories we carry (wire coil, plastic strip, wire strip and paper strip). Then, each week - for the next three weeks - we'll narrow the competition to reach our champion.
Here's how the bracket breaks down:
What do you need to play? A credit card and thirst for competition. YOU decide which category of framing nailer takes it all - and get entered to win some great gear along the way.
Ready to play? The ball's in your court.
~The Team At Nail Gun Depot
A highly specialized and unique process, the assembly of oak barrels for wine, whiskey and other spirits is an age-old art, known as cooperage, dating back to ancient times. While we don't expect many readers to take up the trade, the process is too interesting to not talk about - especially since Aerosmith now offers a tool to pin the metal hoop holding an oak barrel together. Keep reading to learn more about the art of oak barrel assembly.
Work primarily done by hand, even in a time when modern machines dominate assembly, crafting an oak wine barrel starts with selection of the right wood. High-quality oak is assessed on a variety of criteria, including tree shape, growing conditions, wood texture, grain and tannin content. The wood must be hand split, then weathered outside for several years to reach optimal quality. Once ready, the wood is cut into staves, and prepared for the barrel assembly.
The staves that "make the cut," meeting the assembler's standards, are then formed inside a metal hoop, known as an assembly jig. Metal hoops are used to create a structural framework for the barrel, as the wood staves are formed together inside the metal bands through a process of heating and dampening the wood. The joints are sealed and tested, and the final metal hoop is eventually fixed into place.
Metal hoops are fixed into position through the hammering of a mallet. New technology now allows barrel makers the luxury of using a power fastening tool, such as the Aerosmith ST3025C steel pinner, to pin each metal band into the oak barrel staves. Hoop nails (wine barrel nails) hold the steel band, also known as a whiskey barrel hoop or wine barrel ring, into place. We recommend using Aerosmith FP012C pins with the ST3025C nailer.
While the original oak barrel artisans drove their pins by hand, tools such as the Aerosmith hoop nailer make it easier than ever to install oak barrel rings - reducing build time and improving efficiency.
Ready to build a barrel? Give us a shout if you need help.
~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot
When it comes to air compressors, there's a lot to keep in mind. Between the industry jargon, technical terms and units of measurement, it’s easy to confuse the details. The following is a guest post from the Zero Sick Days blog by RolAir Systems, detailing the top five most common air compressor myths reported by customers. Don't let the headlines fool you, the devil's in the details.
1. Focus on displaced CFM.
Displaced CFM is calculated by multiplying the pump’s bore and stroke by its RPM. The result might look good in marketing collateral, but it won’t give you an accurate idea of how much air you’re actually getting out of your air compressor. Delivered CFM (or free air delivery) is what really matters, as it factors in the regulated pressure setting (PSI). It’s a measure of the actual air you have at your disposal.
2. It’s all about tank size.
Tank size is an important factor, but it won’t make up for a small pump. If the pump doesn’t deliver enough CFM, the reserve air will get used up very quickly - and you’ll have to wait while the tank refills.
Determine the amount of delivered CFM you need, and then think about how your pneumatic tools operate. If they operate in quick bursts like nailers and staplers, you’ll be fine with a tank that holds 10 gallons or less. If they run for longer stretches, like grinders, sanders, or spray equipment, go with a larger tank. RolAir offers models ranging from 30 to 120 gallons.
3. Single-phase vs. single-stage. Same thing, right?
The terms single-phase and single-stage have a similar ring to them, and, for someone with limited air compressor experience, it’s easy to confuse.
Single-phase refers to the power supply in most homes and small businesses throughout the U.S. The alternative is three-phase power, which is commonly found in industrial and manufacturing settings.
Single-stage refers to the number of times air is compressed in a reciprocating pump. Single-stage pumps compress air one time. The alternative is a two-stage pump, which compresses the air twice. In general, two-stage pumps produce more CFM and operate more efficiently.
4. Overvaluing PSI.
Some people focus solely on the maximum PSI rating of an air compressor. They know the pressure at which their tools operate, and assume as long as the air compressor can meet those requirements, they’re good to go. The problem with this scenario? A key factor is being overlooked. You can’t have pressure (PSI) without flow (delivered CFM). As your pressure increases, the flow will decrease.
All pneumatic tools use a certain amount of CFM while in use. If your air compressor doesn’t produce enough air for a particular tool, that tool won’t function properly - regardless of the pressure setting.
5. Hung up on horsepower.
Comparing size of an air compressor based on horsepower equates to asking your pharmacist for any medicine available in 250mg pills. Clearly that’s not very effective.
Now imagine calling Nail Gun Depot and asking for a 2 horsepower air compressor. Not all 2 horsepower air compressors are created equal, so you’d likely receive a flurry of questions like, “portable or stationary? Direct drive or belt drive? How many, and what types of tools are you using?"
At the end of the day, you may not end up with a 2 horsepower compressor.
A simple line of questioning is usually enough to clear things up. Before you buy, arm yourself with information. Know the tools you’ll be using. Know their CFM requirements. Know what type of power is available at your job site. Knowing the answers to these questions will help ensure you end up with the right air compressor.
~The Team At Nail Gun Depot
When it comes to finish woodworking, there's a good chance your first project will be one of the following: window casing, door casing, or baseboards and molding. Trim woodworking is a great introduction for hobbyist woodworkers looking to get started with the art.
Before you take the first cut, make sure you have the right tools at your disposal. For each of the trim woodworking applications listed above, a 16 gauge finish nailer will most likely be your best nail gun for the job - especially if working with thick, heavy pieces of wood casing and trim. An 18 gauge brad nailer can also be suitable if working with thin or lightweight pieces of wood trim, but keep in mind it won't offer as much overall holding strength. When in doubt, consider the density of the wood trim you are using. You can also see a more in depth explanation about the difference between finish and brad nails here.
Other items you may need include a miter saw and blades, as well as other basic carpentry tools such as a tape measure, sharp pencil, wood file, wood putty, combination square, safety glasses and other miscellaneous essentials. Typically, you want to make sure the saw blade has at least 40 teeth, as more teeth offer a crisper cut. Of course, don't forget you'll need nail gun nails too.
EXPERT TIP: Don't just measure before you cut. It's often better to hold a piece of trim directly to the location it is being installed, versus relying strictly on numerical measurement. While holding the trim in place, take a pencil and mark where you need to make your cut.
Door & Window Casing
When it comes to trimming a door or window, the process is relatively similar. For door casing, fit one side casing, then install the top and second side. Make sure you match your pieces of wood, to ensure grain pattern is similar at the joints. Never get careless with the corners, you'll need all sides to fit together nicely for a clean finish. It's recommended that you pencil light lines, also known as reveal lines, from the edge of the jamb to align the casing.
Installing window trim follows closely to door casing; mark reveal lines, check corners with test scraps, and transfer reveal lines for cutting and nailing. If installing window trim "picture frame" style, be sure to start at the top, and work your way to the bottom.
EXPERT TIP: Avoid exposing end grain, as it stains differently than flat wood grain. Always cut a return for your molding, even if it ends abruptly.
Baseboards & Molding
Among other popular projects in finish woodworking, installing baseboards or molding doesn't have to be hard - if the proper steps are taken. For baseboards, locate the studs - then lightly mark or use painter's tape to note where to attach. You'll install the large base first, butt to butt, then nail the cap and shoe into place separately. The base cap will install the same as the large base, except in the corners where the outside must be mitered, and coping is required on the inside due to the cap's curved profile. The base shoe conceals small gaps between hardwood flooring and the baseboard, and is installed last. For the shoe, you'll do the same mitering and coping for corners. Be sure to nail the base shoe into the baseboard directly, not the floor, to prevent pulling away when the flooring expands and contracts.
EXPERT TIP: Don't be picky when you don't have to. If you know your baseboard, cap or shoe will be covering a surface, you don't have to worry about spaces or blemishes - since they won't be visible anyway.
For a full background on each of these finish and trim projects, check out The Family Handyman magazine.
~The Team At Nail Gun Depot
Senco Fusion finish nailers have become one of the most recognized cordless pneumatic finish and trim nailers in their class. The Senco Fusion packs innovation, technology and power - all in one handy cordless tool. Find out why you should try Senco Fusion - here on the Nail Gun Network.
If you read up on tools and fasteners, you've seen the Senco Fusion line featured in magazines such as Popular Mechanics, Journal of Light Construction, Tools of the Trade, This Old House and many more. A cordless finish nailer recognized for its features, performance and quality, the Senco Fusion stands out.
Want to know what sets the Senco Fusion apart from its competition? Senco Fusion tools feature an 18 volt lithium ion battery, which guarantees longer charge life with less down time. With a quick-charge system in place, you can renew 80 percent of your battery charge in only 15 minutes. Drive up to three nails per second with no waiting, with a battery range up to 500 nails per charge!
Features include a safety time out, precise depth of drive adjustment, bump fire operation, reversible belt hook, and LED work light. Senco cordless design allows access in hard to reach areas without cords or hoses. Snap the battery into place, and you are ready to nail finish and trim woodwork, baseboards, cabinets, paneling and more. The Senco Fusion is available in four different model types, a 15 Gauge Finish Nailer (5N0001N), 16 Gauge Straight Finish Nailer (6U0001N), 16 Gauge Angled Finish Nailer (5P0001N), and 18 Gauge Brad Nailer (6E0001N).
~The Team At Nail Gun Depot
Hitachi Power Tools introduced a new series of battery-powered cordless, Brushless finish nailers; the NT1850DE 18-Gauge Cordless Brad Nailer, the NT1865DM 16-Gauge Cordless Straight Finish Nailer, and the NT1865DMA 15-Gauge Cordless Angled Finish Nailer. This series combines Hitachi’s reputation for quality with a Lifetime tool warranty.
Lose the air hose, compressor or gas fuel cartridges. These Hitachi cordless finish nailers run exclusively by 3.0Ah compact lithium-ion battery power, delivering comparable energy at roughly half the weight. These batteries are also equipped with Hitachi’s Multiplex Protection Circuit to prevent over-load, over-charge and over-discharge, which further extends the lifetime of the battery.
The cordless nailers in this series also feature Hitachi's Brushless motor technology; for longer run time, less maintenance and increased durability. The driving system features a unique air spring drive system that uses compressed air to drive each nail. This results in zero ramp up time, increased shooting speed, recoil that feels like a pneumatic nailer, quicker response time, better flush driving- even at an angle, and easy maintenance.
The NT1850DE cordless 18-gauge brad nailer accepts a versatile 5/8” to 2” range of 18-gauge brad nails. Tackle trim work, furniture assembly and other finish applications with ease, when using the Hitachi NT1850DE. At only 7.3 lbs, this brad nailer is lightweight, well-balanced, and capable of driving up to 1,650 nails per charge. A visual nail reload indicator located on the magazine turns yellow when nail quantities are getting low, to help prevent blank drives.
The NT1865DM cordless 16-gauge finish nailer runs 1” to 2-1/2” 16-gauge finish nails, making it the perfect choice for installation of molding, chair rails, cabinetry and other finish applications. Capable of driving up to 1,500 nails per charge, and weighing in at only 7.3 lbs, this cordless finish nailer is among the lightest in its class. A dry fire lock-out feature also prevents the Hitachi NT1865DM finish nailer from activation when the nail count is low.
Finally, the NT1865DMA cordless 15-gauge angled finish nailer drives a range of 15-gauge DA type angled finish nails from 1-1/4” to 2-1/2” in length. Not only is the Hitachi NT1865DMA capable of driving up to 1,100 nails per charge, but weighing in at only 7.5 lbs., this cordless finish nailer is also among the lightest in its class. Furthermore, the 34° angle of its magazine allows a user to reach into corners or tight spaces with ease; and an open magazine allows fasteners to be easily viewed, so blank drives can be avoided. As with the 16-gauge model, a dry fire lock-out prevents the NT1865DMA from activation when the nail count is low.
For the contractor, remodeler or weekend warrior seeking a quality cordless finish nailer to deliver convenience and reliable performance, look no further than Hitachi’s all-new cordless, Brushless lithium-ion finish nailers.
~The Team At Nail Gun Depot