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Projects & Applications
Projects & Applications
  • How To Maintain Spirit Level Accuracy

    For woodworkers and construction contractors, the level should be a constant companion while on the job. The integrity of a project hinges on the correctness of your level, yet most have no idea how to properly maintain their level for accuracy. Avoid warranty breaches, and most of all, the early retirement of your measuring companion; test yourself by comparing our tips for spirit level care:

    Stabila Magnetic Spirit Level

    How do I test the accuracy of my level?

    The level-making experts at Stabila have your answer. Although it’s common practice, they don’t recommend testing a level’s accuracy by stacking one on top of another. To properly test the accuracy on any spirit level (aka the carpenter’s level), they advise following these easy steps, found at the bottom of their warranty page.

    To check horizontal accuracy:

    1. Place the level on a horizontal surface; make a mark on the surface at one end of the level.
    2. Take a bubble reading and remember where it is.
    3. Turn the level 180 degrees and place the other end of level at the mark you made earlier.
    4. Read the level.
    5. If the bubble returns to the same place, the level is accurate; if not, it is not accurate.
    6. Repeat again to validate.

    To check vertical (or plumb) accuracy:

    1. Place the level vertically against a wall; make a mark at one end of the level on the wall.
    2. Repeat steps 2 – 6 above, but keep the level vertical instead of horizontal.

    What would cause my level to fall out of warranty?

    Again, using Stabila as a reference, they explain that damage caused by the user is not covered under their specific warranty. For example, if the vials are melted due to excessive heat (when used near welding areas or similar), or if the frame becomes bent or damaged through use, you will most likely void the warranty.

    It’s also important to note that when a level’s frame becomes bent, or is no longer perfectly straight, accuracy will be skewed – even if the damage is minimal.

    How do I properly care for my level, to get the most out of it?

    Stabila’s spirit levels are coated with an electrostatic enamel finish, which means that water and a brush are all that’s needed for cleaning. A reinforced aluminum body, as seen in the 48” Stabila 38648 Type 96M Magnetic Level, is resistant to rusting. However, it is good practice to always store these levels in a secure, protected location.

    Stabila Mason Level

    As for other types of levels, such as wood levels, they may need a little extra protection from the elements. If a wood level gets wet, allow it to completely dry out, as this helps prevent warping, swelling and wood separation – all leading causes for measuring inaccuracy. It’s also important to note that the chemicals in cement can eat away at wood levels. If you plan to work with cement, consider upgrading to a Stabila mason’s level, which is designed specifically for use setting brick, block or stone.

    Now that you’ve read up on accuracy and maintenance, are you ready to level up?

     

    ~ The Team at Nail Gun Depot

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  • First Look: Dewalt DCN890 Cordless Concrete Pinner

    Expanding on an already impressive line of cordless tools, Dewalt, in partnership with Powers Fastening, recently introduced the DCN890 cordless concrete and steel pinner. Among the first battery-only cordless concrete nailers available to contractors, the DCN890 is able to handle an array of projects, including applications in mechanical, electrical, plumbing, drywall, insulation, surface prep and more. Versatile, easily serviceable in the field, and built for contractor-grade performance, here's your first look at the all-new Dewalt DCN890 cordless concrete nailer.

    Dewalt DCN890 Cordless Concrete Nailer

    As with all other Dewalt cordless nailers, the DCN890 is available in two variations - either as a complete kit with (2) DCB205 batteries, DCB115 charger, DCN8904 standard/drywall interchangeable contact trip, and storage case (DCN890P2); or as a bare tool only, without kit (DCN890B).

    This 20V lithium ion cordless concrete nailer isn't afraid to take on both large and small projects alike, designed to drive concrete pins from 1/2" all the way up to 2-1/4" in length.

    Dewalt DCN890 Applications

    What makes the DCN890 important isn't the fact it's cordless, but rather how it's powered. Removing fuel cells and powder loads from the equation, Dewalt's cordless concrete nailer runs exclusively on 20V MAX lithium ion battery power. Not only is the DCN890 safer to operate thanks to a propellant-free design, it also provides long-term cost efficiency - eliminating recurring expense for powder loads or gas fuel. When used with DCB205 5.0Ah battery, Dewalt indicates this tool is capable of firing up to 600 shots per charging cycle.

    Dewalt DCN890 Steel To Concrete

    Featuring a flywheel based design for internal operation, reset time between shots is minimal, allowing for improved overall performance. Thanks to flywheel operation, Dewalt is also able to offer some of the lowest noise and recoil levels among its competition. And, with a propellant-free design, no licensing is required.

    Dewalt DCN890 Electrical To Concrete

    The other major benefit to Dewalt's new DCN890P2 and DCN890B, among its competition, it is the only cordless concrete nailer with a field-serviceable driver blade. Easy to service on-the-go, Dewalt says the driver can be replaced by a user in under two minutes. Specifically designed to accommodate several different applications in concrete and steel fastening, three adjustable power settings allow the DCN890 to handle projects ranging from hollow block, to hard concrete and steel.

    Dewalt DCN890 Specs

    Other features on this Dewalt battery-powered concrete nailer include a driver stall release lever, brushless motor, tool-free access points to clear jams, and an angled magazine for access in tight areas. Meanwhile, dual built-in LED lights illuminate any work surface, while providing valuable tool diagnostics to the user. And best of all, backed by a 3-Year Dewalt Guaranteed Tough warranty, any lingering concern about quality should be put to bed.

    Dewalt DCN890 Features

    Ready to accessorize? The DCN890 can also be mounted on Dewalt's DCN8905 extension pole, which can be used either as a 3' or 6' extension in hard to reach places. Owners will also have the option to order Stick-E and Magentic Stick-E nosepieces for the cordless concrete and steel pinner. And of course, the DCN890 is also compatible with Dewalt's new FLEXVOLT battery too.

    Dewalt DCN890 Assembly

    Commercial applications for the DCN890 include attaching steel track to concrete, block or steel; attaching mechanical clips and fixing to concrete, block or steel; attaching plywood to concrete or block; attaching lath to concrete, block or steel; or attaching furring strips to concrete or block. Suitable base materials for fastening include normal-weight concrete, lightweight concrete, grouted concrete masonry, hollow concrete masonry, and steel.

    Dewalt DCN890 Lath To Concrete

    Ready to order? Initial reports estimate the DCN890 kit will be available as early as October 2017, while we expect the bare tool to follow shortly after. Launch pricing on Nail Gun Depot is set at $749 for the kit, while the bare tool can be had for just under $600.

    With a growing, industry-wide demand for lithium ion tools, do you see Dewalt's new DCN890P2 and DCN890B revolutionizing the way we nail to concrete and metal? Let us know.

     

    ~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot

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  • Everything To Know About Galvanized Nails - And Using Them

    Why use galvanized nails? The quick answer, to slow down the process of rusting and corrosion, by protecting the nail with a zinc coating. Galvanized steel nails will eventually rust (use stainless steel nails to completely prevent rust), but the galvanization (zinc coat) will prolong the nail's lifespan - as compared to non-coated alternatives. Because the cost of stainless steel is often two or three times that of galvanized steel, many contractors elect for the galvanized product in regions where building code doesn't specify otherwise.

    So, you've decided to use a galvanized nail, but now need to determine which type of galvanized coating to use.

    There are two main types of galvanized nail that you'll find on Nail Gun Depot, either Hot-Dip Galvanized (HDG), or Electro-Galvanized (EG). Other types of galvanization can include tumbler hot galvanizing and mechanical zinc plating (also known as peen-plating). You may also see certain galvanized products listed as 1000 hours galvanized, which indicates those items are rated to withstand 1000 hours - or more - of salt spray testing.

    Hot Dipped Galvanized nails are the highest quality of galvanization available, offering 1.7 mils minimum zinc coating thickness, evenly covering all nail surfaces from head to tip - and offering a 30-50+ year lifespan. The process for hot-dip galvanizing includes cleaning the steel body, submerging the nail into molten zinc, and spinning it to remove excess coating. Perfect for use indoor and outdoor, HDG nails provide a good balance of cost and quality. And, an added benefit, the coarse zinc particles offer added "cling" to whatever surface they come in contact with - providing additional holding strength.

    For the highest quality galvanized nail, look to see if it is ACQ approved, which indicates the nail can be used with ACQ pressure treated lumber. For HDG nails, ensure the nail meets ASTM A153 specifications for hot dipped galvanizing.

    For applications where lower quality galvanization is suitable, Electro-Galvanized nails are among the thinnest coating, at 0.36 mils maximum. Ideal for indoor applications, the EG coating has an average lifespan of 5-10+ years depending on the environment. Similar to HDG, Electro-Galvanized nails are also bathed in zinc, but with an electric current that charges the zinc acid and attaches it to the nail's body.

    Despite the benefits to using a galvanized nail, there are certain types of wood, such as cedar or redwood, where galvanized nails (especially those with a lower quality galvanization) will quickly rust and streak the surface, due to a chemical reaction with the wood. We typically recommend using stainless steel nails if working with these types of wood, for a guaranteed high-quality finish.

    When ordering, if you're looking specifically for Hot Dipped Galvanized nails, pay close attention to the product description. More often than not, if a nail is labelled as galvanized, but does not specifically indicate Hot-Dip Galvanized (HDG) anywhere, the nail is probably coated with a lesser quality galvanization, such as Electro-Galvanized (EG).

    Most nails offered through Nail Gun Depot are listed specifically by the type of material, coating, or galvanization they are manufactured with. For additional questions regarding which type of nail or staple is best for your project, consult a product specialist here. You can also learn more by visiting the American Galvanizers Association.

    Of course, always know the building codes and requirements for the area with which you are planning to work.

     

    ~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot

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  • Video Spotlight: See Senco Composite Fasteners In Action

    The plastic polymer base for Senco composite fasteners allows these nails and staples to do some pretty neat things - things your average metal fastener can't do. These composite fasteners can be sanded, shaped, and cut without damage to router bits, cutting blades or sanding belts. Senco also claims they offer "superior holding power, excellent processing characteristics, and long-term resistance to chemicals, sunlight, and moisture." A major advantage we see at first look, no rust, corrosion or staining with these plastic nails and staples. According to Senco, their composite finish nails hold up to two-times stronger than similar sized steel nails, BUT Senco also notes adhesives will do the heavy lifting after curing. Our take, these fasteners - particularly the composite finish and brad nails - are ideal for holding materials in place while adhesives cure. Even better, the non-metal material can be sanded or cut once the adhesive has completely set; meaning you can either leave them in place without fear of corrosion, or sand them down without damaging your tool. Watch to learn more, or get the full write up here: Senco Introduces Composite Tool & Fastener Line.

    ~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot

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  • Choosing The Best Fastener For Drywall - Nail Vs. Screw

    Thanks to modern fastening tools and techniques, hanging sheets of drywall is easier than ever.

    But, which fastener is best for drywall - nail or screw?

    Choosing the best fastener for drywall doesn't have to be hard, if you know what to look for. Builder-grade projects typically use a drywall nail, selected for its budget friendliness and ease of installation. If using drywall nails, space them about 7" apart during installation - or double nail every 12" for an easier finishing job. Before you start, you may decide to invest in a drywall nailer, specifically designed for this type of application.

    How To Fasten Drywall

    What drywall nailing benefits in reduced cost and improved productivity, it lacks in holding strength and versatility. One issue with nailing drywall, you can't use a nail when attaching drywall sheets to steel.

    However, an even bigger issue that often presents itself after nailing drywall. Over time, the nail may begin to work itself out of position - leading to nail pops and breakthroughs.

    You can learn more about repairing a nail pop here, but why not prevent the issue altogether?

    Sample Nail Pop

    To prevent nail pops, we suggest using a drywall screw, such as those by Senco DuraSpin or Simpson Quik Drive. Instant benefits to using a drywall screw include significantly improved holding strength, and the versatility to attach drywall onto a variety of surfaces - including wood and steel.

    Even with drywall screws, you'll still have to decide between thread type and length.

    Coarse thread screws are more common in residential drywall, as they are specifically intended for use in drywall to wood applications, and most residential construction is wood frame. On the other hand, fine thread drywall screws are made specifically for drywall to steel applications, as found mostly in commercial construction. While fine thread screws can technically be used in drywall to wood applications, it is not recommended since coarse thread screws offer a stronger grip once embedded in the wood stud. However, it's even more important to note that coarse thread screws SHOULD NOT be used when attaching drywall to steel framing - always use fine thread only.

    Quik Drive Drywall

    Once you've figured out thread, you'll also need to determine an appropriate length of drywall screw. Commonly found in 1-1/4" and 1-5/8" variations, drywall screws can run in size from as small as 1" up to 2-1/2" in length. Keep in mind, the shorter the screw, the easier it is to drive; just make sure your drywall screw is long enough for the thickness of drywall being installed. For 1/2" or 5/8" drywall, 1-1/4" drywall screws will suffice. For double layer drywall, plan to use a 1-5/8" drywall screw at minimum - with potential to go all the way up to 2" length depending on sheet thickness.

    PRO TIP: Make sure the screw shank is long enough to sink at least 1/2" into the wood stud - or steel frame.

    Because drywall screws offer superior holding strength compared to nails, you'll be able to sink each screw about 12" apart - compared to the 7" spacing suggested for drywall nails. That translates to approximately four or five screws per stud, when hanging 48" drywall sheets.

    Senco DuraSpin Drywall

    When it comes to the tools for installing drywall screws, we recommend investing in a collated screw gun, or a screw gun attachment for your driver motor. A variety of products are available, but we've received particularly good feedback for screw guns by Senco DuraSpin, Simpson Strong-Tie Quik Drive, and Grabber Construction Products.

    Ready to get started? Learn how to install flawless drywall on the Nail Gun Network.

     

    ~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

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  • How To Use A Decorative Nailer

    An essential accessory for anyone in the furniture building or upholstery trade, the decorative nailer eliminates hours of hammering decorative tacks into furniture - vastly reducing production time.

    Ready to get started? Keep reading to learn how to use a decorative nailer.

    UFFY Deco Nailer

    To provide some background, decorative nails are typically found along the edge or seam of an upholstered piece of furniture. Deco nails look similar to a thumbtack, but have a cupped head (resembling an umbrella) when viewing from the side. Before the deco nailer was an option, decorative tacks were hammered into upholstered furniture one by one; a process both time consuming and tedious.

    Decorative Nails

    Thankfully, Uffy Tools introduced the TH-T-DECO1 pneumatic decorative upholstery nailer, which eliminates the redundant hammering of deco nails into upholstery trim. What really makes this Uffy deco nailer unique is its operation. Simply add a handful of correct size (7/16" head by 1/2" shank) deco nails into the magazine, and the tool will sort out the rest during operation.

    What happens inside the magazine is something similar to a tornado, as the tool aligns each decorative nail into an automatically fed magazine.

    No more expensive collated tacks. No manual alignment.

    The beauty of this Uffy - it does all the work for you. Just make sure you have an air compressor that can provide 6.72 CFM at 90 PSI.

     

    ~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot

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  • Four Tips On How To Build A Fence

    An old saying claims, “good fences make good neighbors.” That may be true, but good fences also provide better security, privacy, and can add aesthetic value to a property. Fence building can be time-consuming and costly, which gives all the more reason you want a fence to be durable and long-lasting. Before you get started, carefully consider these four main areas encompassing the fence building process: planning, designing, material selection and assembly.

    Scrail Fencing Banner

    Four Important Steps for Building the Perfect Fence:

    Planning: Before you start to build, you'll need a plan. Familiarize yourself with local building code, ordinances, and HOA policies if applicable, before purchasing materials or hiring a fencing contractor. Be sure your plans also account for any underground utilities or invisible fences, to prevent damage and costly repairs to these fixtures. Have your property line surveyed, to make sure your fence is indeed YOUR fence. The planning phase typically goes tandem with design, as in many ways, each step relies on the other.

    Designing Your Fence: Technically part of the planning phase, designing your fence can be stressful if you don't know what type of fencing you want. Consider your original intent for installing a fence. Is it for privacy, are you looking to confine a pet, or is there some other reason? A privacy fence is typically at least six feet tall, with minimal spacing between boards. Privacy fences can also serve as good pet fences, but may be more than you technically need - depending on the size of your pet. On the other hand, farming and livestock fences are completely different in form and function, but serve an important purpose too. Whatever the intended function of your fence, always design for the terrain you'll be building it on.

    Selecting Materials: When it comes to material selection, we don't recommend cutting corners to save cost. Fencing is expensive enough to install on its own - you don't want to do it twice. For wood, use a species of treated lumber that ages well in your region. For wire fencing, make sure the metal is galvanized or coated to prevent rust and corrosion.

    The same rules apply for fencing fasteners, regardless of whether it's a nail, Scrail, screw or staple. For wire fencing to wood, we recommend one of Fasco's fence stapling systems. For traditional wood, or composite fence boards, consider using a Fasco Scrail, as it offers the versatility of a framing nail, but features the added holding strength produced by the thread of a screw. In damp or coastal regions, you may even opt for stainless steel Scrails, to further guarantee no rust and corrosion developing over time.

    Building Your Fence: The big day is here, it's finally time to build. Keep in mind, a well-built fence can last 20+ years with proper maintenance. The fence building process is typically divided into three or four steps, depending on the type of fence being built. For this article, we'll primarily focus on the three main steps to build the fence's framework.

    The first step in building your perfect fence, mark the location for each fence post. The general rule is to space your fence posts between six and eight feet, but different terrain or design parameters may dictate differently. Always start with your corner(s), or end post.

    Once the area has been marked, the posts are ready to be set. Keep in mind, setting each fence post (especially corner, end and load bearing posts) involves burying at least one-third of the post's total length in the ground, so be sure to treat the bottom portion of each post with a wood preservative before burying. Using a post hole digger, dig a straight hole to your desired depth, and line the bottom of the hole with gravel to help with drainage. You can use a level to ensure the posts are straight and aligned. Brace the post with either cement, dirt or some other holding material, and allow each post to settle for two or three days before adding the rest of the fence.

    After your posts have properly settled into the ground, you're now able to begin adding rails. Your top and bottom rails will always go first, followed by any remaining rails - or a cross frame for certain privacy fences. Rails are added by simply nailing them to the posts (typically with a fencing nail gun), attaching with a bracket or block, or by cutting a grove for the rail. It's important to ensure the top and bottom rails are always attached the same distance apart on each post. After measuring and positioning the first section, cut a measuring stick that equals the distance between these rails. You can use this measuring stick on the rest of the fence to maintain the same measurement on each post. It is also recommended that the bottom rail be placed at least two inches from the ground to reduce the potential for moisture damage. The positioning of any remaining rails ultimately depends on the design selected for your fence - basket weave, picket, vertical or horizontal placement typically covers most fence designs. After all the posts and rails are in place, treat the wood with paint, preservative or weatherproofing for a long-lasting finish.

    Need some extra advice? Click here to see Fasco America's full white paper on "Five Important Tips For Building The Perfect Fence," or read more in their "Good Fences Make Good Neighbors, But What Makes A Good Fence?" blog article.

     

    ~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

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  • What Fastener Should You Use For Deck Boards

    A common question we get this time of year, "what fastener should I use for deck boards?" Most contractors will tell you the short answer, to use a deck screw; but regional conditions and new decking materials may expand - or narrow - the list of suitable fasteners for your deck boards. Take a look at our deck fastener checklist, and learn what options work best for your decking project.

    Quik Drive Decking

    What type of fastener can I use for a traditional wood deck board?

    Standard wood decking is pretty versatile in how it can be assembled to the deck frame. The least expensive option for installing deck boards is to use framing nails, though we don't necessarily recommend it. You'll see a lot of builder-grade decks assembled with framing nails, which remains the most efficient method for installation, but can lead to some maintenance headaches down the road. Over time, the nails will start to work themselves out of the wood board, which greatly compromises holding strength - and can even make the deck dangerous to walk across if nails begin to protrude from the surface. For decking boards, we recommend using a deck screw or Scrail. Both the screw and Scrail offer improved holding strength thanks to a threaded shank, which keeps the fastener locked into place - and can be reversed, allowing for easy removal if a board needs to be replaced.

    Senco DuraSpin Deck Screw Diagram

    What coating, color or material should I choose for my decking fasteners?

    Deck boards come in a variety of materials, colors and sizes. Choosing the right type of fastener is only part of the process, you'll also need to figure out the size and variation of whichever fastener you choose. Collated deck screws are available in several different colors, coatings and materials. If you're installing composite deck boards, we recommend color matching your composite deck screws or BeckDeck Scrails. In some damp or coastal regions, or for decks that are exposed to weather regularly, you may opt for a stainless steel deck screw or Scrail to prevent rusting and corrosion over time. Most standard wood deck screws by Senco or Quik Drive will come with a basic weather guard coating as-is, if you don't opt for something higher end.

    Deck Building Diagram

    Should I use hidden deck fasteners?

    A growing trend in designer decking, hidden deck fasteners and hidden deck screws are rapidly increasing in popularity. Hidden deck fasteners are more luxury than necessity, but for high end decks, they may prove worth the extra investment. The beauty to using hidden deck fasteners, you have a clean deck surface with no blemishes or gaps. There are currently a few options available, if you're looking toward a hidden deck fastening solution. For example, Senco offers the Mantis System, which combines elements of a deck screw with the collation of a nail. Senco Mantis Hidden Deck Fasteners are held in place with a clip, which allows the fastener to be driven into the base of a deck board at an angle. CAMO also offers a hidden deck screw system, which eliminates the need for clips, but also installs the deck fastener at a similar angle. Using a hidden fastening system creates even spacing between boards, and leaves the deck surface unblemished. However, a blemish-free deck surface does come at a cost, as hidden fastening systems typically command a higher price and require longer installation time.

    Senco Hidden Deck Fastening System

    How many fasteners do I need for my decking project?

    Different fastening systems may require different quantities of fastener to complete your deck. On average, we've found you can complete around 100 square feet of decking with approximately 450 deck screws, using two screws per joist. The true number of deck screws required ultimately depends on the width of your deck facing, and the spacing between your joists. A 3-1/2" face with 12" on center joists will run closer to 700 deck screws for 100 square feet; whereas a 5-1/2" face with 24" on center joists will only require about 225 deck screws per 100 square feet. Knowing your joist spacing and facing width will help narrow the project estimate window tremendously.

    Ready to get to work? Feel free to nail a message to our board if you have a question or comment about deck fastening or decking tools.

     

    ~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

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  • How To Assemble An Oak Barrel Using Metal Hoops

    A highly specialized and unique process, the assembly of oak barrels for wine, whiskey and other spirits is an age-old art, known as cooperage, dating back to ancient times. While we don't expect many readers to take up the trade, the process is too interesting to not talk about - especially since Aerosmith now offers a tool to pin the metal hoop holding an oak barrel together. Keep reading to learn more about the art of oak barrel assembly.

    Work primarily done by hand, even in a time when modern machines dominate assembly, crafting an oak wine barrel starts with selection of the right wood. High-quality oak is assessed on a variety of criteria, including tree shape, growing conditions, wood texture, grain and tannin content. The wood must be hand split, then weathered outside for several years to reach optimal quality. Once ready, the wood is cut into staves, and prepared for the barrel assembly.

    Oak Barrel Assembly How To

    The staves that "make the cut," meeting the assembler's standards, are then formed inside a metal hoop, known as an assembly jig. Metal hoops are used to create a structural framework for the barrel, as the wood staves are formed together inside the metal bands through a process of heating and dampening the wood. The joints are sealed and tested, and the final metal hoop is eventually fixed into place.

    Metal hoops are fixed into position through the hammering of a mallet. New technology now allows barrel makers the luxury of using a power fastening tool, such as the Aerosmith ST3025C steel pinner, to pin each metal band into the oak barrel staves. Hoop nails (wine barrel nails) hold the steel band, also known as a whiskey barrel hoop or wine barrel ring, into place. We recommend using Aerosmith FP012C pins with the ST3025C nailer.

    Aerosmith ST3025C

    While the original oak barrel artisans drove their pins by hand, tools such as the Aerosmith hoop nailer make it easier than ever to install oak barrel rings - reducing build time and improving efficiency.

    Ready to build a barrel? Give us a shout if you need help.

     

    ~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot

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  • Top Projects In Finish And Trim Woodworking

    When it comes to finish woodworking, there's a good chance your first project will be one of the following: window casing, door casing, or baseboards and molding. Trim woodworking is a great introduction for hobbyist woodworkers looking to get started with the art.

    Paslode 916000

    Before you take the first cut, make sure you have the right tools at your disposal. For each of the trim woodworking applications listed above, a 16 gauge finish nailer will most likely be your best nail gun for the job - especially if working with thick, heavy pieces of wood casing and trim. An 18 gauge brad nailer can also be suitable if working with thin or lightweight pieces of wood trim, but keep in mind it won't offer as much overall holding strength. When in doubt, consider the density of the wood trim you are using. You can also see a more in depth explanation about the difference between finish and brad nails here.

    Other items you may need include a miter saw and blades, as well as other basic carpentry tools such as a tape measure, sharp pencil, wood file, wood putty, combination square, safety glasses and other miscellaneous essentials. Typically, you want to make sure the saw blade has at least 40 teeth, as more teeth offer a crisper cut. Of course, don't forget you'll need nail gun nails too.

    Senco Brad Nails

    EXPERT TIP: Don't just measure before you cut. It's often better to hold a piece of trim directly to the location it is being installed, versus relying strictly on numerical measurement. While holding the trim in place, take a pencil and mark where you need to make your cut.

    Door & Window Casing

    When it comes to trimming a door or window, the process is relatively similar. For door casing, fit one side casing, then install the top and second side. Make sure you match your pieces of wood, to ensure grain pattern is similar at the joints. Never get careless with the corners, you'll need all sides to fit together nicely for a clean finish. It's recommended that you pencil light lines, also known as reveal lines, from the edge of the jamb to align the casing.

    Bostitch Smart Point BTFP71917

    Installing window trim follows closely to door casing; mark reveal lines, check corners with test scraps, and transfer reveal lines for cutting and nailing. If installing window trim "picture frame" style, be sure to start at the top, and work your way to the bottom.

    EXPERT TIP: Avoid exposing end grain, as it stains differently than flat wood grain. Always cut a return for your molding, even if it ends abruptly.

    Baseboards & Molding

    Among other popular projects in finish woodworking, installing baseboards or molding doesn't have to be hard - if the proper steps are taken. For baseboards, locate the studs - then lightly mark or use painter's tape to note where to attach. You'll install the large base first, butt to butt, then nail the cap and shoe into place separately. The base cap will install the same as the large base, except in the corners where the outside must be mitered, and coping is required on the inside due to the cap's curved profile. The base shoe conceals small gaps between hardwood flooring and the baseboard, and is installed last. For the shoe, you'll do the same mitering and coping for corners. Be sure to nail the base shoe into the baseboard directly, not the floor, to prevent pulling away when the flooring expands and contracts.

    Senco Fusion F-15

    EXPERT TIP: Don't be picky when you don't have to. If you know your baseboard, cap or shoe will be covering a surface, you don't have to worry about spaces or blemishes - since they won't be visible anyway.

    For a full background on each of these finish and trim projects, check out The Family Handyman magazine.

     

    ~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

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