Often a make-or-break factor in roofing, pallet assembly or framing projects, nail shank type plays a critical role in U.S. building code. Using the wrong shank can leave you with a damaged roof, squeaky subfloor, or worse. The following are the most common gun nail shank types found in construction. Learn which is best for your job—and why.

Smooth Shank Nails

Let’s start with the most common nail shank type. Smooth shank nails have no threading and are the easiest to drive. This also makes them the fastest type of nail to drive. Depending on strength and makeup, they can be driven into nearly any surface, and are suitable for a wide range of everyday construction applications—from framing to finishing.

Pro Tip: Consult with building codes and material manufacturer guidelines before starting a project, to determine if you need to use a certain kind of nail or other fastener. You can also check with the International Code Council (ICC) construction-related specifications. 

As you might imagine, smooth nails are the easiest shank type to produce, and thus, among the most affordable. What smooth shank nails offer in versatility, however, they lack in optimal holding ability. So you wouldn’t use them for jobs like roofing, where greater pull-through or withdrawal resistance is needed.

Applications: Framing, Siding, Trim and Finishing, General Woodworking

Ring Shank Nails

Ring shank nails have annular (ring-shaped) threads on them that prevent them from being removed as easily as smooth shank nails. When driven, the thread creates a “locking” effect with wood fibers, which gives it greater resistance from withdrawal.

The ICC considers this and other nail shank thread types as "deformations." According to the International Staple, Nail and Tool Association (ISANTA), "The most common method to make a "deformed" shank is to start with smooth round wire that has been drawn down to the nominal diameter of the finished nail. During the manufacturing process, special machinery rolls and compresses the steel to "deform" the smooth shank into the desired shape:  ring, screw, etc."

So in other words, the term "deformation" is not a negative one. It simply describes the fact that threaded shank nails differ from smooth shank nails, which have what’s considered a "regular" formation.

If you’re driving nails into a material where expansion and contraction is an issue (such as with subfloors, or where fasteners are exposed to the changing elements), you’ll want ring shank nails. Ring shank nails are great for surfaces exposed to high winds that might pull out a common nail. They’re ideally suited for softer woods that might otherwise split when nailed.

Applications: Siding, Roof Decking, Asphalt Shingles, Underlayment, Subfloors (See Installing Subfloors: Nails Vs. Screws.) 

Screw Shank Nails

Screw shank nails combine the benefits of a nail with those of a screw. You get the ease of drive that a nail offers, and approximately the same holding power as that of a screw. The thread forces the nail to turn as it’s driven, essentially forging its own thread in the wood. As with ring shank nails, the threads create a locking effect that makes the nail more difficult to remove.

This type of nail takes more force to drive than both smooth and ring shank nails, but provides greater pull-through resistance than either. While ring nails are more suitable for softer wood species, screw shank nails are ideal for hardwoods. A longer, more complex manufacturing process (and increased holding power) means that screw shank nails are generally more expensive than smooth and ring shank nails too.

Applications: Decking, Flooring, Pallet Assembly, Siding, Fencing, Framing, Sheathing

Helical & Other Nail Shanks

Specifically designed for use with hard yet brittle materials, such as concrete or brick, masonry nails are hardened to prevent bending or breaking when they’re driven. Rather than a threading, as with ring and screw shank nails, fluted shank nails feature linear grooves that allow them to be easily driven without breaking apart the concrete. You may also see the term helical nails, which are also used for concrete and steel. 

Applications: Furring, Floor Plates, Drywall Track To Concrete, Steel Beams

There are other specialty types of nail shank, such as barbed shank, helical threaded shank, stepped-shank, knurled shank, and others—each designed for specialized applications. To further sharpen your nail knowledge, read more about nail components.

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Nothing beats the ambiance and timelessness of wood floors. Hardwood flooring can last a hundred years or more, adding beauty and value to your home. Installing hardwood flooring, on the other hand, can be a daunting process if you aren't familiar with the following frequently asked questions.

Q. What’s the difference between hardwood and engineered wood flooring?

Hardwood flooring is made of solid wood. Walnut, cherry, pine, birch, ash, are common varieties of hardwood flooring. Bamboo (actually a grass and not a wood) is another popular flooring choice these days. Engineered wood, often used interchangeably with hardwood flooring, is actually made of layers of wood with a veneer of real wood. It offers the look of solid wood, but with greater versatility.

Solid hardwood flooring typically comes in 3/4” thick boards, while engineered wood boards are usually 3/8" or 1/2" thick. Hardwood boards are typically narrower than engineered wood planks to better adapt to moisture fluctuation.

Deciding whether to invest in solid or engineered hardwood flooring depends upon your needs and environment. Solid hardwood flooring is known for its endurance and the fact that it can be refinished many times. It's also more expensive than engineered wood flooring, which is more stable and moisture resistant. If a section of engineered flooring gets damaged, however, it usually has to be replaced, as the engineered wood flooring cannot be re-sanded or refinished as many times (If at all) as solid hardwood.

Q. Can I install hardwood flooring on concrete?

Yes. But there are certain requirements to ensure that moisture doesn’t reach the hardwood. The concrete floor for solid hardwood should be at-grade or above-grade (at or above ground-level). For basements, most flooring manufacturers recommend using engineered wood. Furthermore, the concrete also has to be completely dry - even before installing a subfloor. Carpeting, paint and other materials must be removed as well, and you may need a concrete grinder to prep first.

After new concrete is laid, it can take more than a month for the moisture to evaporate from concrete, and moisture levels must be tested prior to installation. Before laying hardwood flooring over concrete, you’ll need a moisture barrier between the two surfaces. For solid hardwood over concrete, it’s recommended to use a wood subfloor, which can raise the overall floor level. Something to consider, as clearance for doorways and other items may change.

Q. What Tools Do I Need When Installing Hardwood Flooring?

If you are installing pre-finished hardwood flooring, you’ll need a flooring stapler or nailer. The choice depends on personal preference. See our article on the Difference between a Flooring Nailer and Flooring Stapler, for more info. Freeman, Bostitch and Powernail are reliable brands for flooring tools; our most popular tool is the Freeman PF18GLCN nailer.

Decide whether you want a manual flooring nailer or pneumatic flooring tool. If you have a large installation project, choose the pneumatic tool. While more expensive, it will make the job faster and save you fatigue. You may also want to invest in a rolling flooring accessory that will also make the process easier, with less lifting each time you fasten.

Other tools need you’ll also need: a hammer, miter or table saw, and a pry bar for removing molding. For installing unfinished wood, you’ll need a sander, vacuum, and other finishing tools.

Q. What Hardwood Flooring Fasteners Will I Need?

As for wood flooring fasteners, you'll use nails or staples. Staples are generally a cheaper choice of fastener, but 16-, 18-, or 20-gauge flooring nails or “cleats” are the choice of pros. They allow for wood flooring expansion and contraction, also providing great holding power. Whichever fastener you choose when installing hardwood flooring, you'll need to use that fastener throughout the entire installation.

The fastener you choose may also depend the wood and subflooring material needed, and the recommendations of the flooring manufacturer. Per Flooring.org, the National Wood Flooring Association, states that for solid hardwood boards, nails or staples should be spaced between eight and ten inches apart, and for engineered wood boards, between four and eight inches. PowerNail has a handy Room Square Foot and Cleat Coverage Calculator.

Q. How much wood do I need to install a floor?

Hardwood flooring is sold in cartons. To determine how much wood is needed, first find out the square footage of space for your project. Before installing hardwood flooring, measure the room’s length and width, then multiply the two to get the total square footage. For an unusually shaped room, measure odd areas separately. It’s helpful to divide the areas into rectangles, add the measurements together and then multiply to get square footage. Don’t forget to include closet space.

It’s advisable to add 5-10% to cover the “waste factor,” wood that will end up being unusable. If you’re completing more than one room, total the total square footage and then add 5-10% for waste cost.

Q. How much does installing hardwood flooring cost?

This depends on a lot of factors—starting with the type of wood for your floor. For a rough idea on the cost to install hardwood flooring, Home Advisor states that the average homeowner will spend $4,396 to install a wood floor. On the lower end of the spectrum, softer woods such as pine can range from $3 to $6 per square foot, while more resilient and exotic wood varieties can cost $8 to $10 per square foot. In the middle lies common wood species, such as oak.

Unless you’re planning a DIY project, add into that estimate the cost of labor, which will run from $3 to $8 per square foot. If you need to have furniture moved or carpeting removed, this will cost extra, so budget that into your costs.

(For more on installation, see our article How to Install Hardwood Floors.)

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Why can’t I order staples for my pneumatic stapler by dimension?

Unlike nails, staples are often sold by series, which doesn't tell you much about size. Furthermore, staples are not "one-size-fits-most," contrary to most categories of collated nails. Staples are instead measured not only by leg length and wire gauge, but also by crown width.

Pro Tip: If you’re having trouble deciding on a staple gun, see “Choosing A Staple Gun For Your Project.”

Crown Size

The crown is the bridge, otherwise known as the horizontal part of a staple that joins the legs. Crown sizes are typically segmented into wide, medium and narrow designations. This can become tricky, as some manufacturers measure the inside of the crown, while others measure the outside (or exterior) of the crown.

Staple crown type can vary by application. For example, some staples come with a flat top, while others have a round or "U-shaped" crown. However, we'll take a closer look at the various crown types in a later article.

Leg Length

While a staple series is typically determined by gauge and crown (which we'll cover later in this article), leg length can vary significantly - even within the same series of staple. See the different leg lengths for the 7/16” crown staple, for example, below.

There are a couple rules of thumb with regard to staple length:

1. Leg length requirements vary by application type, as well as the base material you are driving the staple into. The staple has to be able to fully penetrate and clasp to form a tight bond.

2. The longer the staple legs, the greater the hold or withdrawal strength.

Pro Tip: Never try to force a staple into the wrong tool. Not only can this create a jam, but it could break the staple or damage the tool.

Getting To The Point

Most staples have chisel points, which taper to a point on both legs. This lets the staple legs drive directly into the base material.

Another variation is the divergent-point staple, where the tips taper to opposing points. This forces the legs to bend outward in different directions. Divergent point staples are more difficult to pull out, providing greater holding power.

Wire Gauge

As with nails, staples are categorized by different wire gauges or thicknesses. Gauge is determined by the wire diameter, a standard set in the early half of the 20th century by American Wire Gauge standards. It might seem counter-intuitive, but the thinner the wire, the higher the gauge number. The smallest gauge staple wire we carry here at Nail Gun Depot is a 23-gauge staple for upholstery applications, while the largest is 9 gauge for wire fence building.

Generally speaking, the thicker the wire gauge, the more rugged the application. For finer applications, like fastening upholstery to a furniture frame, a thinner gauge staple is preferable.

What’s In A Staple Series?

Finally, let’s talk staple series. Is there a rhyme or reason for the different series numbers?

In short, yes, it’s true that tool manufacturers want you to use their staples -- and they do make proprietary fasteners to drive the point. Most staple series are determined by the staple's crown size (width) and gauge (thickness).

One way many manufacturers make staple shopping easier, they may designate a particular "series" of staple that is compatible with their tool. Each staple series makes it easier to find the exact staple you need, without having to know all of the dimensions—or how the crown is measured.

In order to consistently get the right staples for your tool, rely on the staple gun itself. More often than not, staple dimensions are printed on a staple gun's magazine.

Finding The Right Fasteners

To help you find the right series, we’ve created the Fastener Finder tool on Nail Gun Depot. Just choose your stapler brand/model from the drop-down menu, and we'll do the rest.  Even if you’re using an older model of air stapler, we can help identify the correct staples for your tool.

Have other questions? Contact us here.

~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

Almost everyone who works in construction has a horror story that involves a power tool. You may have read our January 2014 blog post about a carpenter who accidentally fired a framing nail into his heart. Luckily, he survived the incident, but not without becoming a cautionary tale in Vice magazine.

According to OSHA, nail gun accidents alone account for tens of thousands of serious injuries each year, and they account for more construction-related injuries than any other power tool. And those are only the reported ones.

Just because you’re working on a weekend project, or using a lightweight power tool, doesn’t reduce the risk for injury.

Before You Pull the Trigger

What are the best ways to prevent air tool accidents? Job one is to READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. In fact, you should do so before even firing the tool, which we admit is hard to do when a brand new air gun is burning a hole in your tool bag.

You’ll notice the larger part of a tool’s manual is comprised of warnings; exclamation points in rounded triangles, circles with diagonal slashes through them and occasionally curious illustrations. You’ll see “no horseplay” a lot in user manuals. The warnings are easy to gloss over, but heed them. A power tool mishap can simply ruin your day, or it can shorten your career. Before becoming a statistic, familiarize yourself with the following safety tips.

10 safety tips to follow when using an air tool:

1. Read the manual.
2. Wear protective gear, including safety glasses, shoes, gloves, hard hat, face shield, ear plugs, and whatever else the task requires.
3. Use the right fasteners for the tool. This can prevent damage to the tool as well as accidents down the line.
4. Maintain your tool, hoses, and compressor. Occasionally inspect tools for damage, replace worn parts and use air tool oil, if need be. RolAir has some great tips for maintaining an air compressor.
5. Store tools in a dry place and clear off any debris after using. Moisture, dust and fumes can damage tools. Read our blog on How To Avoid Destroying Your Pneumatic Nailer for more information.
6. Keep a clean work area to avoid tripping and combustion. NEVER blast away debris from a workspace or from skin using a compressor. It can propel metal particles, fragments or chips. Air driven under the skin can cause an embolism. If you clean an object with a compressor, OSHA has specific regulations for protective gear, chip guarding and air pressure (below 30 PSI).
7. Always use the correct air pressure required for the tool. Check the user manual for guidelines, or learn more about PSI here.
8. Opt for Sequential over Contact fire. Reserve rapid bump firing for high-volume, high-speed applications. See our video on safe trigger use. Also, respect the rebound. After driving a fastener, allow the tool to recover before for making contact with the surface again.
9. Keep your finger OFF the trigger until you’re ready to drive a fastener. Always refrain from pointing a tool at anyone.
10. Turn your tools off when not in use. That includes air nailers, staple guns, air compressors, etc.

Besides ensuring your tool is in working condition, make sure you are, too. Don’t overreach, and avoid alcohol or other substances that can cloud judgment or impair movement. Want to see more? Our friends at Senco have even more great safety tips for using power tools.

~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

Will a new siding fastener transform fiber cement siding installation?

In partnership with Paslode, James Hardie Building Products created HardieNails, a patented 1-1/8” long fastener that attaches siding without the need to hit a stud. The manufacturers have designed a nail that’s shorter but stronger, so it doesn’t need to be driven as deeply.

So, how does it work?

Revolving, Evolving Nails

With standard nails, you run the risk of puncturing electrical wire or plumbing behind sheathing (known as a “shiner”). Not so with HardieNails. These fasteners use the same technology behind TetraGRIP Subfloor Fasteners, which work like a screw by rotating into the material. The distinctive threading is based on the barbed helix design of the TetraGRIP Subfloor Fastener, as can be found in our Paslode TetraGRIP Article.

Unlike ring-shank nails, which are commonly used for siding, HardieNails will not split wood or shred wood-based sheathing. Essentially they create a “lock” into the material, so there’s less “play” or movement, even as weather and time affect materials. The nails are used exclusively with the lightweight Paslode 515400 Coil Siding Nailer, featuring Paslode TetraGRIP technology. The 0° fasteners come 120 per coil and can be driven (at a pressure between 100 PSI and 120 PSI) with the same speed as nails.

HardieNails are made of type 304 stainless steel for superb weather resistance. Without chance of staining or streaking, popping and corrosion, they’ll outlive and outperform galvanized ring shank nails, extending the life of the overall siding project.

Studs Need Not Apply

HardieNails boast a 0.300 full round head, .117 diameter and the same withdrawal strength as a 2-1/4” nail. The fastener’s engagement in the wood creates a mechanical bond, which imparts a high-load capacity, so there’s actually no need to attach them to a stud. Instead, the fastener uses 7/16 wood structural panels (WSP) as the base to attach to frame. Workers can shave even more time off installation, as there’s no need to locate and mark studs.

The manufacturers of HardieNails report that just 35-85% of the nails hit the studs. Instead, these nails fasten directly to OSB (Oriented Strand Board Sheathing). You also don’t have to measure and cut planks to fit on the studs. Simply apply the off-cuts in the next course, without cutting further. This means less product waste as well.

Imagine the savings in time, money and manpower when a siding crew can skip the stud-finding and marking steps. To give you a better idea, Paslode estimates a 20% reduction in installation time. That’s according to a study comparing standard nails and HardieNails, when installing HardiePlank Lap Siding.

HardieNail Compatibility

A combination of sand, cellulose fibers and cement, fiber cement has been used as a siding material for more than a century. Most commonly known as HardieBoard in North America, it was developed by James Hardie Industries in the 1980s, when the prevailing reinforcement material (asbestos) was determined to be unsafe.

HardieNails are compatible with all HardieBoard siding options, including HardiePlank, HardiePanel and HardieShingle. Lap and panel siding are 5/16” thick, while the shingle panel siding is 1/4” thick. With each of these options, fasteners are placed as follows for moderate basic wind speeds:

HardiePlank
• Place fastener 1” from top edge and 3/8”-1-1/2” from the ends of lap siding
• Place fastener every 16” o.c.
• Space butt joints at least 6” apart

HardiePanel
• Place fasteners 3/8” to 1” from edge of panel vertical siding
• Place fastener every 12” x 12”

HardieShingle
• Place fasteners 3/8” to 1” from edge of siding from the edge of shingle siding
• Place fastener every 16”

For a technical data sheet on the HardieNail, click here. The fasteners can also be used with plywood and Huber Engineered ZIP. You can expect the same withdrawal strength with those materials as well, says Paslode.

The HardieNail offers many advantages over standard siding nails, preventing damage to utility wires, greatly reducing installation time and effort, and producing less material waste. Similar to TetraGRIP subfloor fasteners, the Paslode HardieNail is not available for sale online or in most stores. While an exact release date has not been confirmed, we anticipate HardieNails will be available before the end of 2018. For more information on how to become a HardieNail customer, contact Nail Gun Depot.

~ The Nail Gun Depot Team