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Projects & Applications
Projects & Applications
  • What's A Cap Tool - And Why Should I Use One?

    If you work with housewrap or roofing underlayment, and still use a manual slap stapler, it's time to upgrade. After all, who wouldn't want to improve their workmanship, while increasing job site productivity? The solution is simple - add a cap nailer or cap stapler to your gang box.
    Stinger CN100
    What's the benefit of a cap fastener, versus a standard nail or staple? With a fastener and cap system, the cap helps protect and expand the surface area (holding power) of the fastener. This means the fastener is better able to withstand harsh weather conditions - protecting the housewrap or fabric from separating and tearing.
    Many manufacturers require capped fasteners be used with their wrap or felt, due to the increased strength and protection they provide. Cap tools can also be used for a variety of other applications including foam board installation, carpet padding and more. In other words, these tools are perfect for installing soft, dense material.
    Stinger Cap Tool
    If you're looking at cap nailers, you have a couple options to choose between. A popular choice among roofing contractors, consider the Stinger CN100. Similar to a cap stapler, cap nailers are perfect for roofing, sidewall and insulation board. Just be sure to confirm with the material manufacturer, whether a nail or staple is required for your application.
    For commercial roofing applications, where volume and speed are top priority, the Stinger RT3 (formerly RT2) is one of the best options we've come across. Simply walk the tool along the line you are cap nailing, and let the tool do the rest.
    Senco BC58
    When it comes to cap staplers, you'll have more than a few options to choose from. Look to Senco's BC58 cap button stapler, Hitachi's N3808AP cap stapler, Pneu Tools Rap-A-Cap 58 (RC-58), and of course, Stinger brand cap tools - including the CH38-2 (manual fire), CH38A (auto fire) and CS150 (replaced by the CS 150B) (air-powered) cap tools. Once again, material and surface fastening requirements will dictate whether a staple or nail is best suited for your job.
    Before you buy a cap tool, be sure to consider the following:
    • Manual vs. Auto-Firing Tool
    • Tool Weight & Balance
    • Tool Maneuverability
    The benefit to a manual cap stapler, such as the Stinger CH38-2, the tool is lightweight and smaller in size - which makes it easier to maneuver. On the other hand, pneumatic cap staplers are bulkier in design; typically weighing between four and five pounds - before caps and staples have been loaded.
    Despite its larger size, for heavy-duty, high-volume use, most contractors still choose an auto-fire cap tool over the manual hammer tacker.
    Stinger CH38
    Need additional help? Let one of our trained technicians guide you to the perfect cap tool for your project.

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team
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  • What Are Concrete/Steel Nailers - And When To Use Them?

    Typically, we look at the commonplace nail guns and staplers that can be found in most workshops or contractor's vans, but what about the tools that are not as common - yet equally important in function? This week, let's take a look at Concrete/Steel Nailers and their significance in the construction trade.

     

    For the average do-it-yourself homeowner, chances are you won't have a need for one of these high-powered fastening tools - unless you are working with the basement's foundation or building a structure with concrete. The place where concrete/steel nailers (also known as "t-nailers") shine is as simple as their name - applications that require a nail being driven into concrete. Where a user would ordinarily have to drill into concrete to attach wood or other materials, the concrete nail gun eliminates the need for drilling, which saves time. Depending on the intensity of your application, these tools can range in price and durability, with lower-end models, such as the Spotnails MT9764, available on Nail Gun Depot for less than $250, while higher-end models, such as the Aerosmith SurePin CT90, can cost $1,000 or more.

     

    Using a concrete nailer on a surface that is not solid enough can result in cracking or damage to the material, such as wood - or even cement - so it's important that you use the appropriate nailer for the project you are completing. See our article on Brad Nailers vs. Finish Nailers for finish and trim applications.

     

    Also, keep in mind that a concrete/steel t-nailer will require different types of collated fasteners than other nail guns. These fasteners are commonly known as Concrete Pins and/or T-Nails. They are harder than a traditional nail and feature a special, tack design, to increase grip power. Applications that allow concrete pins and t-nails to perform optimally include the installation of furring strips, plywood to concrete nailing, wire lath installation, steel banding to concrete, wood to metal, decking, fencing, subfloor to concrete slab and more.

     

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

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  • The Nail Gun Buyer's Guide

    If you've come to the Nail Gun Depot, chances are you know what a nail gun is, what it does, and how it is used. Nailers come in a variety of shapes and sizes, designed to fulfill tasks that range from framing to finishing to flooring - depending on the user's needs. With a variety of options available, which tool is right for you? Find out the features you need, to take on the projects you want to build, right here.

     

    Types of Nail Guns

    From top-to-bottom, the largest of the nail gun family is the framing nailer. Framing nailers are built to tackle large jobs that require heavy duty fasteners (nails) - such as framing, fencing and pallet building. The industries that benefit most from this type of tool include home-building, construction and manufacturing. Similar to the framing nailer, roofing nailers are almost identical in appearance, however these nail guns are designed specifically to fastening roofing shingles.

    For projects that are a bit less intense, finish nailers are recommended for jobs such as door and window trim, paneling, baseboard, casing, crown molding, furniture, shelving and cabinetry. A close relative to finish nail guns, brad nailers drive an even smaller - brad - nail, and are designed for small trim work and furniture repair. Typically, using a brad nail gun will prevent the need for wood putty to cover up a hole where the fastener has been driven - but these nailers can only be used on lighter-duty projects, since the fastener is not as large as a finish nail. Last but not least, a pin nailer might be your best option for crafting or small trim projects, such as cabinet doors and bird house building. For anyone in renovation or remodeling, having a good finish and brad nailer is key to success.

    Designed specifically for hardwood and laminate floor installation, floor nailers are the last of the commonplace nail guns that most contractors or DIYer's will require. These nailers are built to install a variety of hardwood floor sizes and thicknesses. Typically activated with a mallet, floor nailers are only built for flooring applications. 

     

    Pneumatic or Cordless Nailer?

    The age old debate between contractors, do I want a cordless nailer or a pneumatic, air-powered nail gun? Most heavy-duty nail gun users swear by pneumatic tools, as they are generally a bit more reliable and do not require re-charging on the job site. The downside to a pneumatic tool, it requires the use of an air compressor. For workshop woodworkers, using nailers such as finish, brad and pin models, a small compressor will be more than capable. For heavy-duty, high-intensity use on a construction site, look to a larger compressor, as it has a larger tank and is capable of providing enough air-pressure for larger tools - including framing nailers.

    If you choose a cordless nail gun, you will need to keep a battery charger handy to keep your tool running - once the battery wears down. Cordless framing nailers also require a fuel cell to provide the necessary pressure to drive a fastener. The benefit to a cordless tool, you can reach beyond the length of an air hose and can get into tighter, hard to reach areas. You also eliminate the need for an air compressor with a battery-powered nailing tool. This is generally the appeal that makes these types of tools desirable to DIY builders.

     

    Nail Gun Features

    You'll more than likely encounter some - or all - of the following terms, when comparing nailers. One of the most important features you will want to look for, an adjustable depth of drive lets you select how far you want your nail (or other fastener) driven into the object you are fastening. Another option to look for, directional exhaust plates allow you to select the direct your tool shoots it's exhaust - this feature is particularly beneficial in dusty areas. Last, but not least, you will also want to be sure your nailer has a jam clearing feature - to avoid lost time and/or costly repairs if/when your tool jams.

    Depending on the job your are working on, pay attention to features such as trigger size (if you wear gloves while working), easy adjustment for different nail or fastener sizes, and a rugged exterior design to handle the projects you throw at your nailer.

    Keep an eye out for the length of warranty offered by a manufacturer. Most brands will come with a one-year limited warranty, but certain tools go above and beyond - such as Senco's XP (XtremePro) line of nailers that include a five-year limited warranty, or Bostitch's seven-year limited warranty that is offered on select tools.

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

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  • Tips & Tools To Build The Perfect Deck

    Summer is approaching quickly, which means its time to enjoy the longer evening hours with some much needed time outdoors. For many Americans, this means relaxing on their deck or patio. An important feature on new and old homes alike, a large, well-built deck can add major profit margins to your home's resale value. If you are considering the addition of a new deck to your home, or are replacing an existing one, learn about some of the tips and tools that will help you build the ultimate deck - here on Nail Gun Depot's blog.

    The actual process of building a deck can take weeks - or even months - depending on its size and the amount of resources you have to pour into it. Because it is such an intricate and drawn out process, we are just going to focus on the major milestones in the deck building process. If this is your first woodworking or deck building project, we recommend you consult a professional to help you create the deck of your dreams. One or two missed steps can lead to expensive repairs and time lost.

    If you are building a new deck, you will have to start with its foundation - also known as its footing. Typically, footing(s) are poured concrete that you then attach post anchors and beams to, with a power drill. Meanwhile, you will also have to anchor and attach a ledger board to the wall of your house - or the supporting structure - to anchor the deck. You will then anchor the joists to the ledger board.

    Once you have installed joists to the beams and the frame is in place, you will then need to consider how you want to attach the flooring of your deck. There are a couple ways to go about flooring installation. You will want to use a deck screw, treated for outside use - Senco offers a full line-up of Duraspin deck screws. If you choose to do a traditional deckfloor install, you should think about using a screw gun with an extension, such as the DuraSpin DS425-AC. The benefit to using this screw gun for deck floors - or any sub-floor installation - is that it has an extendable arm, which eliminates the need to bend over or kneel down to drive screws. Quik Drive also offers decking screws and attachments that are comparable in form and function to that of DuraSpin - and come with a lifetime warranty.

    If you don't like the appearance of deck screws, you can opt for a slightly different method of floorboard installation. The CAMO Marksman Pro system drives CAMO deck screws in at an angle to create the appearance of a fastener-free deck. Like the DS425-AC DuraSpin, the CAMO Marksman Pro will work with hardwood and composite decking applications. The Marksman Pro works with most power drills by simply positioning the system over a board, loading your fasteners, and driving the deck screws in with the drill.

    In addition to the flooring installation, you will also need to build stairs - assuming the deck is going to connect with the ground below it - and install a railing that surrounds the deck. Depending on the type of wood you are using, if you are building a wood deck, check to see how long the wood needs to set before it is ready for stain.

    For more information on deck building tools and fasteners, contact us at Nail Gun Depot.

     

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

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  • How To Choose The Right Upholstery Stapler

    Remodeling a chair or piece of furniture? If you work with - or are planning to do upholstery work - you will want to find an upholstery stapler that properly suits your needs. To the novice, you will want to select your staple gun based on its specific application. Upholstery staplers are designed for applications that range from industrial use to amateur fabric work. Finding the right one for you can be easy - if you know what to look for.

    For those just getting into upholstering, you will probably want to select your stapler based on the application you are intending to use it for. First, you will need to measure the material you are working with, to determine the gauge (thickness), crown (width) and leg (length) of the staple necessary for your project. Once you know the gauge of staple needed, you can find the appropriate stapler - you will also see that a variety of brands are available to choose from including Senco, BeA, Duo-Fast, Spotnails, Grex and more.

    Depending on the thickness of material, you will probably choose between a 20-gauge or 22-gauge upholstery stapler. Next you will need to decide whether you want a pneumatic (air-powered) tool or an electric tool. If you do not have an air compressor, an electric tool will bypass the need for one - however, pneumatic upholstery staplers are typically less expensive. 

    Once you've gained some additional experience, you might want to upgrade to a long nose upholstery stapler. The extended nose on these staple guns allows them to reach into tighter spaces.  Long nose upholstery staplers are typically used for more skilled projects, projects that require a higher level of intricacy. If you are sticking to small, simple upholstery work, using a regular nose upholstery stapler should yield the necessary results for your project. 

    For more help deciding on the right upholstery stapler, check out the ModHomeEc writers' review of upholstery staplers.

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

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  • How To Build A Raised Garden Bed

    An increasing demand for sustainable living has led many people - both rural and urban - to grow their own food. The perfect place to manage and monitor the growth of your food source, especially in urban areas, consider building a raised garden bed to harvest mini-crops. Once built, these sustainable planters will continue to provide a renewable food supply - year after year.

    Building one or two of these large planters is easier than you might think - it only requires a few hours, a nailer or screw gun, fasteners, a power saw, and lumber. Once built, you will want to fill each "box" with a soil and compost mixture, creating a nutrient rich fertilizer that can boost and sustain the growth of your garden. The purpose of these beds is to raise the soil up, creating a built in drainage system and reducing the amount of space needed between plants - helping to crowd out weeds.

    To get started, dig a trench around the space you want to install your raised garden bed(s). The trench should outline the shape of the garden bed, typically designed in a rectangular formation. The size of a raised garden bed can vary, with small ones that are 3' by 6' - ranging to larger ones that can double in size. Typically, these beds should be 1' to 2' high, as it might be hard to produce enough "fill-dirt" if the bed is much deeper. While there is not a "correct" size, you want each garden bed to be small enough that you can reach the center when planting, watering and harvesting.

    Once a trench has been dug out, begin laying your lumber to create a frame that fits into the trench that was formed. Note that if you are using a pressure treated wood (or any lumber that has been exposed to chemicals), you will want to insert a layer of landscape fabric into the bed of the planter to protect against any chemical seepage. Be sure to also use only galvanized or stainless steel nails or screws, to reduce/eliminate rust corrosion.

    Build each wall of your raised garden bed separately, then attach them together at the end of the project. You will want to use either a framing nailer or a collated screw gun. Once the walls are in place, you will want to also install a ledge along the frame of the bed, to rest on and/or lay gardening tools.

    Now that your garden bed frame has been built, you can elect to install an irrigation system or greenhouse cover, depending on the budget for your project and the vegetation you are looking to grow. Build your raised garden bed to accommodate the crops you are intending to plant. Tropical plants will require a greenhouse-like environment (including heat in the winter), whereas tomatoes only require sunlight and water from late-spring to early-fall.

    NOTE: If you plan to keep any plant alive during the winter, you will need to protect them from the outside elements of colder climate areas.

    After adding your fertilizer mixture and planting your crop, be sure to protect your garden from predators such as deer and other wildlife that will eat your plants. Install a tall wire or chain fence around the garden bed(s) to prevent deer and other wildlife from feeding on your veggies. If budget allows, build an open, small-framed structure around your beds to protect them from animals - without blocking sun and rain from reaching them. You might find a Hog Ring Tool beneficial for fastening the wire.

    All that's left to do is tend to your crops and enjoy the sustainable foods that you grew in your backyard.

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

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  • Tools And Projects That Are Worth The Investment

    We usually talk about tool categories for a project, but what about the features of a tool that makes it unique to the competition? Today, we're going to focus on a few of our favorite tools to splurge on, paired with the projects they are built to tackle. Learn which tools and projects are worth the investment.

     

    Framing Projects

    Finding the right Framing Nailer to fasten the bones or frame of your project. One of the most popular choices according to Nail Gun Depot's customers, the Paslode CF325Li cordless framing nailer (replaced by Paslode CF325XP) is built to handle heavy-duty work, with long-term success. Powered by a fuel cell and rechargeable battery, this is the framing tool for tight fitting spaces. Thinking about finishing a basement? It's also the tool for framing your walls.

    Once framing is complete, most contractors will use a screw gun to attach drywall to the wood studs. Available in both battery-powered and electrical-powered variations, the Senco DuraSpin Collated Screw System is among the most popular options on the market today, and trusted by contractors for their quality and versatility. If you're in the market, look at the DS312-18V or DS332-AC to maximize the available range of screws.

    Pro Tip: If finishing a basement, stick to the basics. Less is more in many instances. Putting a lot of intricate detail and fancy upgrades into a basement does not typically return the investment. Unless budget is no object, look at tasteful updates that will boost resale value.

     

    Hardwood Flooring

    Hardwood flooring can add big value to a home and can help make it more attractive to a prospective buyer, if it is done correctly. Starting a hardwood floor installation properly means using tools to get the job done right. Known for making quality flooring tools, the Bostitch MIIIFS is one of the best-selling floor staplers offered at Nail Gun Depot - and comes with a seven-year warranty to support its reputation. 

    Pro Tip: Be sure to know the thickness of the floors you are installing. The typical range of thickness is 1/2" to 3/4" flooring, though other variations are available. Compare different breeds of wood to see which hardwood floor will match your walls and furniture best.

     

    New Trim and Molding

    Ready for small, around the house updates? For trim, molding, shelves, cabinets and more, you'll be looking for either a Finish or Brad Nailer. Once again, Senco is at the top of our must-have tool list with their Fusion line of cordless finish and brad nailers, which are among the most competitive options available to the market today. These battery-powered finishing tools have been recognized by top-tier industry publications including Popular Mechanics and the Journal of Light Construction for their durability, versatility and available features.

    Pro Tip: Adding crown molding to your home can infinitely improve appearance - and even boost resale value. This is an inexpensive upgrade that can payoff big when trying to sell your home. Look to match crown molding and baseboards for an aesthetically pleasing design. When working with a dining room or living space, consider adding a matching chair rail too.

     

    Upholstery Refresh

    Last but not least, you have a fresh, new look for your home, but need some new furniture and decor to add that final, personal touch. When you've run out of ways to improve your house itself, look for ways to compliment its design - through decor. One way to do this is through refinishing and reupholstering furniture. For all of your upholstery work, make sure you choose a staple gun with the capability to take on a wide range of projects, from furniture upholstery to light wood assembly.

    Pro Tip: Measure the length, width and depth of the seating pad and multiply three times the amount of any given dimension to calculate the amount of fabric you will need for your surface. Calculate for each chair separately. Measure from the longest point if working with a curved or angled shape.

    Contact Nail Gun Depot with any questions about these and other tools. Want to compare models? We can help with that too!

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

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  • The Difference Between Brad Nailers & Finish Nailers

    If you're doing simple upgrades around the house, you're most likely shopping for either a brad nailer or finish nailer. So, which one is right for you? To the untrained eye, these tools would appear to be the same, but in reality, each has a different purpose.

    MAX NF255FA 18 Ga brad nailer

    Brad Nailers, The Precision Workers

    A brad nailer such as the MAX NF255FA pictured above, is designed to run 18-gauge, fine-wire brad nails. These small nails are very hard to drive manually, which makes a brad nailer essential to any major home renovation project where brads are needed.

    On top of that, brad nails are almost invisible once they've been driven into wood. In fact, there's a good chance you won't need carpenter's putty to conceal a brad nail that has been driven into trim. The downside is that these fasteners lack the holding strength for larger, heavier projects, such as large crown molding or baseboards.

    The Bostitch SmartPoint 16-Gauge Finish Nailer

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  • Repairing Nail Pops - There's No Joke About This Tricky Project

    It might be April Fool's Day, but we aren't joking around with this tricky project. Nail pops occur over time, when a nail begins to separate from the stud it is anchoring drywall to. As the nail begins to work itself out, it eventually applies enough pressure to the spackle or putty above it, to force the putty away from the drywall - exposing the nail's head. Nail pops may be caused by a variety of reasons - from wood beams that swell with humidity to a settling foundation.

    An occasional nail pop is nothing to get excited about, but if you notice other problems such as severe cracking, bulges or discoloration in your walls and ceiling - consult a building inspector to have your home evaluated for a more serious issue.

    More often than not, a nail pop is caused by the convergence of warm and cold climate(s), which causes wood to swell and contract. They are also more common in older homes, as screws were not a preferred method of drywall fastening 20-30 years ago. Current builders and contractors have the option of using a screw gun, such as Senco's DuraSpin tools, when installing drywall. In the past, nails were typically used for drywall installation. Because a nail has a smooth body, it doesn't command the same holding power that the tracks on a screw do - making it easier to slip out of position.

    There are a couple ways to repair a nail pop, depending on the arsenal of tools at your disposal. The simpler solution, take a nail punch to the center of a nail pop, and lightly tap it with a hammer. In the unlikely event that a screw has come loose, simply take a screwdriver and tighten. When using the nail punch, sheetrock and drywall will likely chip away if the nail has not completely protruded through yet, so you will have to use spackle to cover the opening; followed by smoothing, sanding and painting.

    For a more permanent solution to the problem, you can also drive a drywall screw into the drywall, along the same stud where the nail has begun to separate. The screw should secure the drywall in place - whereas using a nail punch does not guarantee the issue will not recur if the nail re-separates. Once the screw is in place, scrape any leftover sheetrock or putty away from the original nail gap and spackle over both the nail and screw opening(s). Smooth, sand and paint as necessary.

    Nail pops can be a tricky problem for homeowners, but can be easily repaired with the proper attention. If you don't feel comfortable repairing the issue yourself, consult a handyman or professional.

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

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  • How To Install Hardwood Floors

    With the housing market slowly taking a positive turn, many consumers are beginning to once again buy and sell houses. At the same time, many house hunters are looking for homes they can rehab - giving them a chance to put their personal style into the home they will live. A popular trend in rehab and renovation, and one of the first things many home-buyers will add to their home if it's not already there, installing hardwood floors can enhance your home's appearance - and even add value. Learn how to install hardwood floors, on the blog by Nail Gun Depot.
     
    Your first step in hardwood floor installation is determining the type of wood you want to use, including species, board width and thickness. The finish and color of your hardwood flooring will play a major role in the overall appearance of a room, so make sure you choose flooring that matches your furniture, cabinets, counters and wall color. Know the measurements of the space you will be installing a new floor, to get the most accurate pricing and quantity of materials needed. Thicker wood is typically more expensive, but can add strength to your floor system. If you are working with a tight budget though, you will most likely want to use a thinner cut of wood.
     
     
    When measuring a room for flooring installation, measure the width and length, then multiply for square footage. Order 10-15% extra material to allow for mistakes and irregular board lengths - such as when lining floor boards up to a wall.
     
    Before you even begin to install your hardwood floor, inspect the sub-floor to make sure it is sturdy and free of squeaks. At a minimum, sub-flooring needs to be 3/4" thick. If there is a squeak, drive a long drywall screw into the sub-floor at the joist where the squeak happens. Be sure the sub-floor is clean and free of any debris.
     
     
    Next, you will want to put down a layer of vapor barrier paper. This paper helps to prevent moisture from forming underneath your hardwood, which can eventually lead to cupping or mold if left untreated. You'll want to use 15 pound tar paper or felt, allowing at least 4" of overlap between sheets. Secure the barrier by stapling - and be sure to pencil a line on the baseboards to show where joists are located. You are now ready to begin your installation.
     
    Start installation with the longest wall, and work your way across the room. Remove the shoe molding from the wall and create a chalk line 3/8" from the baseboard, to allow for expansion and contraction due to humidity and climate change. Begin with a long board for the first row. Line up the board's edge to the chalk line and drill pilot holes through the board into the sub-floor and joist. You will want to face nail each board at every joist, using a nail-set. Repeat this for the whole first row of boards - choosing board length at random to stagger the boards. A trick of the trade, lay all of your boards out prior to nailing, to get an idea of length and ensure the boards do not line up uniformly. Lay the floor boards perpendicular to the joists below. This will help to anchor the floor and will add to its sturdiness and integrity. A simple trick to help you determine direction, look at your sub-floor and see which direction the nails run along the joists.
     
     
    Once you have installed a few rows of boards, drill additional pilot holes into each board's tongue, and hand-nail the rolls. Once you have enough clearance, begin using a pneumatic floor nailer. You can also use a manual floor nailer, depending on preference. Keep in mind a pneumatic nailer will probably cost a little more than its manual counterpart, but the ease of use and time that a pneumatic tool saves will justify its use in most cases. You will also need to decide whether to use a flooring nailer versus a flooring stapler. Be sure to research the proper length of a nail or staple for the tool you are using - and the board it is fastening.
     
     
    Position the lip of your pneumatic floor nailer over a board's edge and strike firmly, using a flooring mallet. This will drive the nail into the tongue of the board. The industry standard, drive at least two nails per board - placing them roughly 10" apart. For tongue and groove flooring, make sure each end fits into the corresponding end of the next board. If this is not completed properly, your floor will be left with fairly large gaps. When you approach the opposite wall from where you began the flooring installation, you will again return to drilling pilot holes and using a nail-set, as the pneumatic nail gun will not fit properly.
     
    Once the last board is secured and in place, clean the newly installed hardwood flooring with a damp cloth, using only a water and/or vinegar solution. Finished hardwood is very durable, but can easily be damaged by exposure to dense moisture, direct sunlight, heavy items being dropped, or items scratching across its surface. If you take good care of your hardwood floors, they can last a lifetime.
     

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team


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