CALL CART ACCOUNT

ITEMS IN CART: 0

$0.00

translate
How-To Instructions
How-To Instructions
  • Quick Tips For Fixing Framing Nailer Jams

    Nothing ties up work faster than a nail gun jam. It's a nuisance that can cut into your work, unnecessarily delaying projects. All nail guns will jam from time to time, no matter the brand, no matter the price. This applies equally to coil and stick framing guns. It's very easy, however, fixing framing nailer jams yourself.

    Read on to learn how to clear a fastener jam—and what causes a jam in the first place—so you can prevent them. Also, be sure to watch our helpful videos on the Nail Gun Depot YouTube Channel.

    Using a Hitachi NR83A5(S). This worker surely knows how to fix a framing nailer jam

    Clear An Impulse Framing Nailer Jam (also works for paper tape nail guns)

    One of our most popular tools is the Paslode CF325XP Cordless Framing Nailer, originally the Paslode Impulse framing gun. Because it is such a common tool, we get a lot of calls asking how to fix fastener jams. Well, it’s simple to do it yourself, whether on this or another brand of paper strip framing nailer. 

    Learn how to fix a framing nailer jam in a Paslode XP Cordless Framing Nailer

    1. Disconnect the power supply. For a cordless nailer, remove the battery and fuel cell. For a pneumatic nailer, disconnect the air hose.

    2. Remove the fasteners. You don’t want any flying out when you remove the stuck nail from the magazine.

    3. Using an Allen wrench, loosen the two screws underneath the depth adjustment.

    4. Using a screwdriver, gently separate the magazine assembly from the nose assembly. You’ll notice the driver blade is stuck with the offending nail behind it.

    5. Using the screwdriver again, push the driver blade down. If there’s a really tight jam, tap the driver blade down with a nail set. Pushing the driver blade down should help clear out the jam.

    6. Tighten the Allen screws back up, and you're ready to go.

    What Caused the Jam:

    Tape Collation Fail: The fasteners have been mishandled, or the paper tape has gotten wet. Nails will no longer line up properly.

    Slamming the Follower: This can also throw off the nail collation. Use enough force to close the follower, but don’t slam it shut.

    Incorrect Loading: Nails have been put into the magazine backward.

    Wrong Fastener Collation: If the nailer calls for a 34-degree paper collated nail strip, for instance, don’t try to use a 28-degree wire collated nail strip. Use the angle and collation directed by the tool manufacturer.

    Learn how to fix a framing nailer jam in a Metabo HPT/Hitachi NV83A5 Coil Framing Nailer

    Clear a Coil Nailer Jam

    Another fan-favorite framing nail gun is the Metabo HPT NV83A5 Coil Framing Nailer, previously known as Hitachi brand. Here's how easy it is fixing framing nailer jams in your coil nail gun.

    1. Disconnect the air supply.

    2. Remove the fasteners.

    3. Push the driver blade down by tapping it with a nail set and a hammer. If you’ve got an old driver blade on hand, you can also use that to push the current driver blade down.

    4. Make sure the driver blade is all the way down and remove the stuck fastener completely from the nose of the tool.

    5. Reload nails and reattach air supply.

    What Caused the Jam:

    Lack of Adequate Oil: The air cylinder in the nose needs plenty of oil to function properly. Too little oil, and the nails will be slow to feed, causing a jam. Pro Tip: For coil nailers, use 10-15 drops of oil before nailing.

    Misshapen Coil: A coil has to be round to feed properly. If the roll has become misshapen from being dropped or squeezed, you can try to re-form it. In some cases though, you just have to start over with a new coil.

    Wrong Fastener Type: Be sure the nail's shank diameter and collation match the tool's specified usage. Otherwise, the nails will not fit or feed properly in the tool. This is why many manufacturers have a coil nailer specifically designed for use with roofing nails, versus siding nails, versus framing nails.

     


     

    Shop Nail Gun Depot:

    Framing Nailers

    Framing Gun Nails

    Read More
  • Fasten-Ating Facts: Understanding Nail Shank Types

    Often a make-or-break factor in roofing, pallet assembly or framing projects, nail shank type plays a critical role in U.S. building code. Using the wrong shank can leave you with a damaged roof, squeaky subfloor, or worse. The following are the most common gun nail shank types found in construction. Learn which is best for your job—and why.

    Choose from various nail shanks for construction applications

    Smooth Shank Nails

    Let’s start with the most common nail shank type. Smooth shank nails have no threading and are the easiest to drive. This also makes them the fastest type of nail to drive. Depending on strength and makeup, they can be driven into nearly any surface, and are suitable for a wide range of everyday construction applications—from framing to finishing.

    Pro Tip: Consult with building codes and material manufacturer guidelines before starting a project, to determine if you need to use a certain kind of nail or other fastener. You can also check with the International Code Council (ICC) construction-related specifications. 

    As you might imagine, smooth nails are the easiest shank type to produce, and thus, among the most affordable. What smooth shank nails offer in versatility, however, they lack in optimal holding ability. So you wouldn’t use them for jobs like roofing, where greater pull-through or withdrawal resistance is needed.

    Applications: Framing, Siding, Trim and Finishing, General Woodworking

    From Simpson Strong-Tie, a Smooth Nail Shank

    Ring Shank Nails

    Ring shank nails have annular (ring-shaped) threads on them that prevent them from being removed as easily as smooth shank nails. When driven, the thread creates a “locking” effect with wood fibers, which gives it greater resistance from withdrawal.

    The ICC considers this and other nail shank thread types as "deformations." According to the International Staple, Nail and Tool Association (ISANTA), "The most common method to make a "deformed" shank is to start with smooth round wire that has been drawn down to the nominal diameter of the finished nail. During the manufacturing process, special machinery rolls and compresses the steel to "deform" the smooth shank into the desired shape:  ring, screw, etc."

    So in other words, the term "deformation" is not a negative one. It simply describes the fact that threaded shank nails differ from smooth shank nails, which have what’s considered a "regular" formation.

    If you’re driving nails into a material where expansion and contraction is an issue (such as with subfloors, or where fasteners are exposed to the changing elements), you’ll want ring shank nails. Ring shank nails are great for surfaces exposed to high winds that might pull out a common nail. They’re ideally suited for softer woods that might otherwise split when nailed.

    Applications: Siding, Roof Decking, Asphalt Shingles, Underlayment, Subfloors (See Installing Subfloors: Nails Vs. Screws.) 

    Another example of nail shanks, the ring shank nail

    Screw Shank Nails

    Screw shank nails combine the benefits of a nail with those of a screw. You get the ease of drive that a nail offers, and approximately the same holding power as that of a screw. The thread forces the nail to turn as it’s driven, essentially forging its own thread in the wood. As with ring shank nails, the threads create a locking effect that makes the nail more difficult to remove.

    This type of nail takes more force to drive than both smooth and ring shank nails, but provides greater pull-through resistance than either. While ring nails are more suitable for softer wood species, screw shank nails are ideal for hardwoods. A longer, more complex manufacturing process (and increased holding power) means that screw shank nails are generally more expensive than smooth and ring shank nails too.

    Applications: Decking, Flooring, Pallet Assembly, Siding, Fencing, Framing, Sheathing

    Simpson Strong Tie Nails With Screw Shanks

    Helical & Other Nail Shanks

    Specifically designed for use with hard yet brittle materials, such as concrete or brick, masonry nails are hardened to prevent bending or breaking when they’re driven. Rather than a threading, as with ring and screw shank nails, fluted shank nails feature linear grooves that allow them to be easily driven without breaking apart the concrete. You may also see the term helical nails, which are also used for concrete and steel. 

    Applications: Furring, Floor Plates, Drywall Track To Concrete, Steel Beams

    There are other specialty types of nail shank, such as barbed shank, helical threaded shank, stepped-shank, knurled shank, and others—each designed for specialized applications. To further sharpen your nail knowledge, read more about nail components.

     


     

    Shop Nail Gun Depot:

    All Collated Gun Nails

    Coil Framing Nails

    Plastic Strip Framing Nails

    Paper Stick Framing Nails

    Read More
  • 6 Critical FAQs Before Installing Hardwood Flooring

    Nothing beats the ambiance and timelessness of wood floors. Hardwood flooring can last a hundred years or more, adding beauty and value to your home. Installing hardwood flooring, on the other hand, can be a daunting process if you aren't familiar with the following frequently asked questions.

    Installing Hardwood Flooring is a Perfectly Sound Investment

    Q. What’s the difference between hardwood and engineered wood flooring?

    Hardwood flooring is made of solid wood. Walnut, cherry, pine, birch, ash, are common varieties of hardwood flooring. Bamboo (actually a grass and not a wood) is another popular flooring choice these days. Engineered wood, often used interchangeably with hardwood flooring, is actually made of layers of wood with a veneer of real wood. It offers the look of solid wood, but with greater versatility.

    Solid hardwood flooring typically comes in 3/4” thick boards, while engineered wood boards are usually 3/8" or 1/2" thick. Hardwood boards are typically narrower than engineered wood planks to better adapt to moisture fluctuation.

    Deciding whether to invest in solid or engineered hardwood flooring depends upon your needs and environment. Solid hardwood flooring is known for its endurance and the fact that it can be refinished many times. It's also more expensive than engineered wood flooring, which is more stable and moisture resistant. If a section of engineered flooring gets damaged, however, it usually has to be replaced, as the engineered wood flooring cannot be re-sanded or refinished as many times (If at all) as solid hardwood.

    Q. Can I install hardwood flooring on concrete?

    Yes. But there are certain requirements to ensure that moisture doesn’t reach the hardwood. The concrete floor for solid hardwood should be at-grade or above-grade (at or above ground-level). For basements, most flooring manufacturers recommend using engineered wood. Furthermore, the concrete also has to be completely dry - even before installing a subfloor. Carpeting, paint and other materials must be removed as well, and you may need a concrete grinder to prep first.

    After new concrete is laid, it can take more than a month for the moisture to evaporate from concrete, and moisture levels must be tested prior to installation. Before laying hardwood flooring over concrete, you’ll need a moisture barrier between the two surfaces. For solid hardwood over concrete, it’s recommended to use a wood subfloor, which can raise the overall floor level. Something to consider, as clearance for doorways and other items may change.

    Hardwood flooring installation with the Bostitch BTFP12569 2 in 1 Flooring Tool

    Q. What Tools Do I Need When Installing Hardwood Flooring?

    If you are installing pre-finished hardwood flooring, you’ll need a flooring stapler or nailer. The choice depends on personal preference. See our article on the Difference between a Flooring Nailer and Flooring Stapler, for more info. Freeman, Bostitch and Powernail are reliable brands for flooring tools; our most popular tool is the Freeman PF18GLCN nailer.

    Decide whether you want a manual flooring nailer or pneumatic flooring tool. If you have a large installation project, choose the pneumatic tool. While more expensive, it will make the job faster and save you fatigue. You may also want to invest in a rolling flooring accessory that will also make the process easier, with less lifting each time you fasten.

    Other tools need you’ll also need: a hammer, miter or table saw, and a pry bar for removing molding. For installing unfinished wood, you’ll need a sander, vacuum, and other finishing tools.

    Q. What Hardwood Flooring Fasteners Will I Need?

    As for wood flooring fasteners, you'll use nails or staples. Staples are generally a cheaper choice of fastener, but 16-, 18-, or 20-gauge flooring nails or “cleats” are the choice of pros. They allow for wood flooring expansion and contraction, also providing great holding power. Whichever fastener you choose when installing hardwood flooring, you'll need to use that fastener throughout the entire installation.

    The fastener you choose may also depend the wood and subflooring material needed, and the recommendations of the flooring manufacturer. Per Flooring.org, the National Wood Flooring Association, states that for solid hardwood boards, nails or staples should be spaced between eight and ten inches apart, and for engineered wood boards, between four and eight inches. PowerNail has a handy Room Square Foot and Cleat Coverage Calculator.

    Q. How much wood do I need to install a floor?

    Hardwood flooring is sold in cartons. To determine how much wood is needed, first find out the square footage of space for your project. Before installing hardwood flooring, measure the room’s length and width, then multiply the two to get the total square footage. For an unusually shaped room, measure odd areas separately. It’s helpful to divide the areas into rectangles, add the measurements together and then multiply to get square footage. Don’t forget to include closet space.

    It’s advisable to add 5-10% to cover the “waste factor,” wood that will end up being unusable. If you’re completing more than one room, total the total square footage and then add 5-10% for waste cost.

    Installing hardwood flooring is a solid investment in any home

    Q. How much does installing hardwood flooring cost?

    This depends on a lot of factors—starting with the type of wood for your floor. For a rough idea on the cost to install hardwood flooring, Home Advisor states that the average homeowner will spend $4,396 to install a wood floor. On the lower end of the spectrum, softer woods such as pine can range from $3 to $6 per square foot, while more resilient and exotic wood varieties can cost $8 to $10 per square foot. In the middle lies common wood species, such as oak.

    Unless you’re planning a DIY project, add into that estimate the cost of labor, which will run from $3 to $8 per square foot. If you need to have furniture moved or carpeting removed, this will cost extra, so budget that into your costs.

    (For more on installation, see our article How to Install Hardwood Floors.)


     

    Shop Nail Gun Depot:

    Flooring Fasteners

    Pneumatic Flooring Nailers

    Manual Flooring Nailers

    Flooring Staplers

    Read More
  • How Screws Are Measured

    Screws come in a variety of types and sizes for an endless number of construction tasks—from woodworking to metal roof installations. But, choose the wrong length or width, and it can split the wood, or affect the soundness of a structure. As with staples, screw measurement is slightly more complicated than that of nails. Here are three essential measurements every tradesperson should know.

    Screw measurement has three main points

    Screw Measurement, In Three Parts

    There are three main screw measurements: gauge, length, and threads per inch (TPI). When shopping for collated screws at Nail Gun Depot, for instance, you’ll find screws labeled like this: Duraspin #8 x 1-1/4" #08X125CBACTS. So, what do the #8 and 1-1/4" mean?

    Screw Gauge

    The first number is screw gauge, which refers to the outside thread diameter. This is also known as “major diameter.” Screws with a major diameter less than 1/4” are typically labeled in sizes #0 to #14. Screws with a 1/4" or larger major diameter are labeled in fractions of an inch.

    For each gauge size, there is a decimal equivalent. Example: #1 = .073”. That number increases by .013” with each increasing size. For the #8 Duraspin screw (shown below), the decimal equivalent is 0.164”. Engineering Toolbox has a handy screw size chart that lists screw gauges and their decimal equivalents.

    Beyond major diameter, screws have other width measurements. The width beneath the threaded part of the screw is known as root diameter or “minor diameter." The measurement of the unthreaded part of the screw (if not fully threaded) is the shank diameter.

    Durasping Screw, Screw #8 x 1-1/4", #2 Square, Round Washer, Type 17 #08X125CBACTS

    Screw Length

    The next important aspect of screw measurement is shaft length. In the Duraspin screw mentioned above, the length is the second detail in its label—1-1/4". Shaft length is the part of the screw that drives into a surface. 

    The length measurement for a countersinking screw is the distance from the top of the head to the tip. This goes for flat-head, bugle-head, trim-head—and any other countersinking screw where the head can be driven beneath a surface.

    For a non-countersinking screw, it's the distance from the bottom of the head to the tip. So for hex-, pan-, button-, round-, and truss-head screws, length is measured from directly under the head to the tip. One exception: an oval-head screw, which can be partially countersunk, is measured from the widest point of the head to the tip.

    Below is an example of two non-countersinking timber screws from Simpson Strong-Tie. The first screw has a washer head with a low profile. The second screw also has a washer head, but a more prominent hex drive. Note where the length is measured on each.

    SDWS Log screw (SDWS221500)vand a SHWH Timber Simpson Strong-Tie Hex screw (SDWH271500G).

    Threads Per Inch (TPI)

    TPI is a measurement of the number of threads in a one-inch section of screw. The TPI measurement occasionally follows the screw gauge with a hyphen. For example, a screw labeled "#10-12" has a #10 gauge with 12 threads per inch. You may have heard the term "thread pitch," which refers to the number of threads per unit of measurement.

    Check out the detailed measurements, below, for the Senco Duraspin 08X125CBACTS washer-head screw. The #8 gauge screw has a major diameter of 0.17" and 8 TPI. The screw is 1-1/4" long, a measurement taken from the bottom of the head to the point.

    Technical information for Senco Duraspin

    If you're shopping for collated screws and need help, contact Customer Service for assistance.


     

    Shop Collated Screws

    Senco Duraspin Collated Screws

    Quik Drive Collated Screws

    Read More
  • 6 Tips: Preserving Tool Battery Power in Cold Weather

    Cordless tools are more common than ever these days, and what’s more, they keep improving as manufacturers continue to innovate. You’ve probably noticed that Lithium-Ion battery power has surpassed NiCad (nickel-cadmium) and NiMH (nickel metal hydride) in cordless tools—and nearly everything else we use. But in cold weather, Li-Ion batteries seem to lose steam. We'll help you preserve power in your cordless tool battery with 6 easy tips.

    Dewalt DCN693M1Li-Ion Cordless Metal Connector Nailer at Nail Gun Depot

    Benefits of Lithium-Ion Batteries

    Lithium-ion batteries have many benefits over their predecessors; they store a larger amount of electricity, have a lower rate of self-discharge, and are more compact/weigh less than other rechargeable batteries. These cordless tool batteries aren’t delicate flowers, but they do have more basic requirements for maintaining optimal performance. You may have noticed, for instance, that your Li-Ion-powered tool is a little less forgiving in colder weather.

    Batteries are a collection of chemicals and other materials assembled to create a reaction that will then power your tool. And chemicals inside of them can be impacted by extreme situational changes. On the plus side, if you can call it that, Li-Ion is more stressed by extreme heat than extreme cold. Protection circuitry mainly prevents over-heating. but It's up to you to prevent over-cooling.

    Here’s a fact: When the temp dips below 40°F, Li-Ion batteries don’t fully hold a charge. And trying to charge them at that temperature can permanently affect run-time. So, what to do?

    Preserving battery power, as in a Senco Lithium Ion 18 V Battery

    How to Preserve a Li-Ion Tool Battery in Cold Weather:

    1. Store (and charge) batteries within the temperature range recommended by the tool manufacturer. While you can discharge a tool battery in extreme cold, charging it in freezing temps (32°F or colder) is a no-no. You may not see the damage, that doesn’t mean it’s not happening inside the battery.

    2. If a Li-Ion battery has fallen below 40°F, place it in a room-temperature area for an hour or two and let it warm up. What is room temperature? About 72°F, give or take a few digits.

    3. Optimal temps aren’t always available job sites. When not using the Li-Ion tool battery in cold weather, remove it and place in a pants pocket to transfer some body heat to the battery. Another option is to use a gel warmer in the tool bag while it’s in the work car/truck.

    4. Don’t let a Li-Ion battery completely discharge before re-charging it. Unlike older battery types, Li-Ion doesn’t need to be completely drained/re-charged. Li-Ion batteries suffer from little to no “memory effect,” or low-charge capacity when continually charged from a partially charged state.

    5. Once you start to feel power lagging, swap out the battery with a spare and recharge the first one. Having a few spare batteries on hand will keep you powered up. Yes, you should have a spare battery. And yes, we sell those at Nail Gun Depot.

    6. When it’s time to store the battery for an extended period, leave 40% to 50% life in it. This helps keep it stable and keeps the circuit protection operational. Store the battery in a cool (40°F to 60°F), dry area on a plastic or wood (not metal) shelf. 


     

    Shop Cordless Tools

    cordless nailerscordless staplers and accessories, and cordless screw guns

    Shop Batteries

    Metabo HPT (Hitachi) batteries, Dewalt batteries, Senco batteries, and Bostitch batteries

    Read More
  • 10 Surprising Facts About Wood

    Recently, we were asked what type of nailer to use with a specific wood. And it got us thinking—what about wood? We talk a lot about tools and fasteners, but not so much about the actual material we use to build, make and play. So we compiled 10 interesting tidbits about wood. After all, where would we be without pine for lumber, or the hickory bats used in America’s favorite pastime? So, let’s take a swing and learn a few things.

    A Wooden Bridge Over a Creek

    Here are 10 Cool Facts About Wood:

     

    1. Trees not only absorb water, they filter and produce it. A single tree can absorb up to 100 gallons of water and release it into the air—in a day.

    2. There are more than 23,000 types of trees. They’re broadly divided into two groups—hardwood and softwood.

    3. The terms “hardwood” and "softwood” can be a bit misleading, as they don’t necessarily refer to the strength of the wood, but rather how the tree propagates. Hardwood trees are deciduous, have enclosed seeds and lose their leaves in a season. Most softwoods are evergreen with their seeds residing in cones. 

    4. Cedar, pine, fir, and other softwoods make up approximately 80% of the lumber used in construction, including framing and roofing. (Shop our framing or roofing tools and fasteners here). Softwoods are fast growing, more easily worked, and feature a wide grain.

    Image of Wooden Flooring

    5. Often used for carving, oak is extremely durable but difficult to work. It has a high tannin content, which makes it resistant to attack by insects. Take a wild guess at America's national tree.

    6. Oak and southern yellow pine (SYP) are the two most common woods used in pallet making. (See our tools for pallet and crate assembly.) 

    7. A softwood, cedar is used to make roof shingles. Easily sawed and nailed, cedar is a good insulator and it's resistant to humidity.

    8. Some of the most common natural woods used in flooring include the hardwoods maple, cherry, and oak. Other popular choices are teak and walnut. Click here to shop flooring tools and fasteners.)

    9. Native to North America, the Douglas fir is the traditional choice of Christmas trees. Other popular types include Scotch pine, cypress, cedar, and Colorado blue spruce.

    10. A 12-ton Norway spruce was used for the 2018 Rockefeller Center Christmas tree. After the holidays, the wood will be cut into pieces, kiln dried and milled. The finished beams will be donated to Habitat for Humanity.

    Closeup of a Christmas Tree and Light

    Need a fun project for using leftover pallet wood? Habitat posted some steps for making a pallet Christmas tree. If anyone decides to try it, please post about it, below!

     

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

    Read More
  • The Year in Review - Our Top 10 Blog Articles of 2018

    Nail Gun Network's Best of 2018

    As the year begins to wind down, it's time to reflect, and review the stuff our readers found most interesting. Below are our Top 10, most-read articles of the year. If you missed any, just click the links to get caught up! And thank you for being a loyal reader.

    1 The Difference Between Siding VS. Framing Nail Guns

    There’s no denying our article on these the two large-bodied nail guns drew a lot of interest. Siding and framing nailers may look similar, but they do serve different purposes—and take different fastener lengths. In February, we explained why the two are occasionally interchangeable, and why it’s sometimes better to invest in the right tool for the job.

    2 Hitachi Power Tools To Become Metabo HPT

    Next on our list was the announcement that Hitachi’s huge re-branding, announced in March. After being acquired by an investment firm, they sought to differentiate themselves, changing their name to Metabo HPT, as well as ushering in a new logo. While the name and face have changed (and part numbers, FYI), be assured their product quality will remain the same.
    Many fans of Hitachi had feelings about the change. If you did, share them in the comments!

    3 Do Systainer Air Compressors Stack Up To Competition?

    In March, we looked at how some of the new Systainer air compressor systems stacked up, and you took notice. Both Cadex and Rolair came out with their own competing takes on the sleek setups. Making air compressors more rugged and mobile sounds like an all-around good idea. In this article, we looked at the cost and convenience of upgrading and whether was a “square deal.”

    4 Easy Tips To Install Shiplap

    And you thought the trend of applying rustic wood siding to walls (and ceilings!) had already sailed. Turns out the popular home design treatment is still cruising along. After all, the look has a timeless appeal, and with the right tools, installing shiplap makes for a very doable home improvement project. In this August blog article, we offered up some tips for completing your own ship-shape shiplap project.

    Framing Nailer And Tools of 2018

    5 Installing Subfloors: Nails Vs. Screws

    For subflooring applications, we weighed the pros vs. cons of using one fastener over another. We compared aspects of speed, cost, durability and holding power. The battle of nails vs. screws continues, though a relatively new nail-screw hybrid may throw an interesting wrench into the debate.

    6 How to Load: Top Vs. Bottom-Loading Staple Guns

    Early in the year, we covered a seemingly simple topic—how to load your staple gun. For wood and upholstery professionals, the pneumatic staple gun is the tool of choice, but staples are some of the most confounding fasteners. The where and why of loading isn’t always so obvious, especially to the first-time staple gun user. In this post, we supplied simple step-by-steps for getting your stapler ready for work.

    7 Is Hitachi's Cordless Pin Nailer A Game Changer?

    Before shaking up the industry with their massive re-branding, Hitachi introduced an exciting new tool for the year—the 100% battery-powered NP18DSAL 23 gauge cordless pin nailer. The ability to drive 3,000 pins per charge at a rate of 2-3 pins per second was news. We were intrigued by the tool’s features, including its no-push sequential firing. Apparently, so were our readers. Did you invest in the Hitachi (we mean Metabo HPT) nailer? If so, let us know in the comments.

    8 Under Pressure — PSI, CFM & Air Fittings Explained

    Do you know how your air compressor works? Or what the PSI of your tool means? We're not here to judge. We see the acronyms all the time, but don’t always have time to investigate. In our July article on common air compressor and air tool specs, we did so. Because the more you know…

    9 Paslode Hardienails: No Studs Required

    Fiber cement siding is not a new application. In fact, it’s been around for more than 100 years. But a durable new fastener, made of stainless steel, may significantly upgrade the installation process. And the bonus part—you don’t need to fasten the nails to the studs, relieving siding installers from several time-consuming parts of the process.

    10 Top Cold Weather Nail Gun Accessories

    Our final top-10 post of 2018 happens to have very good timing. Last winter, we suggested some must-have tools and accessories for working in cold weather. Let’s face it—just because we feel like going into hibernation mode, doesn’t mean work comes to a grinding halt. With the right tool oil, fuel cell and hose, you can maintain the same level of efficiency. In this article, we offered up some tips on how to keep your tools up to speed, even when the Fahrenheit takes a dive.

    Planning any big (or even small) projects this winter? Let us know!

     

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

    Read More
  • Prevent Burnout By Oiling An Air Nailer Or Stapler

    Considering how much they can cost, and how hard they work, air tools are really an investment. That’s why oiling an air nailer (or stapler) is so important. It ensures a return on your investment--and that wearable parts, like O-rings, aren't prematurely fried. It's also super easy to do.

    We've tackled a few "burning questions" about oiling an air nailer or stapler to keep them running for years to come.  

    OilingNailer2

    How often should I oil my tool?

    Daily. And if you’re working on an extended project, oil the tool before you start working and again mid-way through the day (after a lunch break, for instance). If the nailer's sat unused for a while, you definitely want to oil it before using it again.

    What kind of oil should I use?

    Only use lubricating oil made specifically for pneumatic tools, such as Senco Pneumatic Tool Oil or Paslode Lubricating OilOther oils lack the correct viscosity or contain ingredients that can destroy the seals, disintegrate O-rings, or may even cause combustion. Keep the WD40, compressor oil, motor oil, transmission fluid, etc. out of your air tools.

    Also, if you’re working in below-freezing conditions, you'll need a tool oil that's formulated for temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit and contains anti-freeze. Try Paslode Cold Weather Tool Oil.

    What oil not to use on an air nailer

    How much oil do I need?

    All you need is 5-10 drops of oil. Drop the oil into the air inlet, the nozzle where your air hose attaches to the tool.

    What happens if I don’t use tool oil?

    The O-rings in the tool will dry up, causing the tool to malfunction. It will also cause unnecessary wear on its components, and potentially cause corrosion. To learn more about maintaining your nail gun, read our post on How to Avoid Destroying Your Pneumatic Nailer

    Pro Tips:

    • Make sure the air tool is OFF before adding oil.
    • Do not oil the tool's magazine, as this attracts dust and dirt. You definitely don’t want any debris stuck in the magazine, which can cause fastener jams.
    • Drain the air compressor at the end of each day. This keeps condensation from building up in the compressor, entering the tool, and then corroding it.

    Have questions? Just contact NGD's knowledgeable customer service.

     


     

    Shop Nail Gun Depot:

    Nail Guns

    Paslode Tool Oil & Accessories

    Staple Guns

    Read More
  • Rebuilding A Paslode PowerMaster Nailer

    If you’ve noticed your pneumatic nailer skipping, leaking air or acting sluggish, it might be time for a tune-up. O-rings are among several nailer components that are considered “wearable parts” and are usually not covered by a manufacturer’s warranty. So it bodes well (i.e. saves money in repairs) if you can replace them yourself.

    By fixing your own tool, you gain a better understanding of how it functions. And in just half an hour’s time, your tool should be running like new again.

    Paslode PowerMaster Nailer Rebuild Kit

    We’re rebuilding a Paslode PowerMaster F350 using the 219235 PowerMaster Plus Tool Repair Kit. The kit's instructions are very helpful in rebuilding the Paslode's F-350S (#501000), F-350P (#515000), and F-250S-PP (#500855) air nailers. But, should you need a little visual aid, follow along with us. For extra help, see your specific tool’s manual for the parts diagram.

    Tips:

    • Gather the needed items, below, on a clean, flat surface.
    • Disconnect the tool from air supply, if you haven’t already, and remove any fasteners.
    • As you disassemble the parts, line them up, so you know which order to reassemble them.

    What You’ll Need:

    • Paslode F350 PowerMaster Plus Tool Repair Kit (contains 9 O-rings, 1 cap gasket, 1 sleeve seal, 1 spring, silicone-based lubricant, instructions)
    • Paslode pneumatic tool oil
    • 3/16" hex key (Allen wrench)
    • Snap ring pliers
    • Pick tool or stick pin
    • Clean rag

    Steps:

    1. Using the hex key or Allen wrench, unscrew the four bolts on the nailer cap. Pull off the old gasket.

    2. Using a hex wrench, loosen and remove the head valve.

    Removing Paslode PowerMaster Head Gasket

    Main Valve O-Rings

    3. Using the snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring.

    4. Using a stick pin or pick tool, remove the two O-rings in the main valve.

    5. Add the new O-rings and lightly grease with the silicone-based lubricant (219188).

    Pro Tip: Use only silicone-based lubricant (grease) on the O-rings. Break grease and other types can clog your tool and cause the O-rings to swell.

    6. Place the snap ring back in. Then, remove the old spring, and set it aside to replace later.

    Paslode PowerMaster Nailer O-Rings and Snap Ring

    Head Valve O-Rings

    7. Using a stick pin or pick tool, remove the outer and inner O-rings on the cap.

    8. Using a clean rag, wipe out the old grease on the cap.

    9. Replace the outer O-ring, and lightly grease it.

    Removing an O-ring with stick pin

    10. Remove the inner O-ring and replace with the new. Apply a thin layer of grease to the inner O-ring.

    11. Now, replace the old spring with new (500407). Set the head valve atop the spring.

    12. Apply Paslode tool oil to the outer and inner O-rings.

    13. Press the head valve on the spring, pushing down a few times to work the oil in.

    Post O-Rings

    14. Remove the old O-ring on the post. Add a new O-ring to the post and grease it.

    15. Put the post back into the head valve and use a hex wrench to tighten it.

    Removing Paslode F350 Piston Assembly

    Piston Sleeve O-Rings

    16. Remove the piston sleeve, then remove the piston inner assembly.

    17. Remove the sleeve seal. If the seal is stubborn, use a flat-head screwdriver to pry it off.

    18. Replace the sleeve seal with the new one, popping it into place.

    Replacing Paslode PowerMaster Sleeve Seal

    Flange O-Rings

    19. Remove the flange. You may have to tap gently with a mallet to loosen it.

    20. Remove the fist O-ring from the piston sleeve, then remove the second.

    21. Replace with the new O-rings. Grease only the top O-ring. The bottom O-ring has holes under it that allow air to escape when the tool is functioning, so it should not be greased.

    22. Pop the flange back in.

    Paslode PowerMaster Rebuild: Grease only the top O-ring

    Main Body O-Ring

    23. Remove the O-ring in the body (outer flange) of the tool. Put the new O-ring into the body, resting it on the inner “ledge.” Apply a thin layer of grease to the O-ring.

    Paslode PowerMaster Rebuild Instructions

    24. Put the cylinder back into the tool body, snapping it into place.

    25. Remove the piston O-ring. In this case only, you’ll apply grease to the O-ring BEFORE you place it on the tool. Once greased, place it on the piston.

    26. Place the piston driver assembly back in the tool. Make sure that the piston driver’s bevel tip is pointing in the right direction, facing the nailer handle and magazine.

    Paslode PowerMaster Rebuild Kit Beveled Edge of Piston Driver Assembly

    Pro Tip: if the beveled edge of the driver is not correctly placed, nails will jam/skip when firing.

    27. Put in the new gasket, either side facing up

    28. Replace tool's cap, lining up the stud to fit into the notch. Tighten the screws snugly on the cap. Do not over-tighten.

    Test Firing the Nailer

    Add tool oil to your nailer and reinsert fasteners. Then do a few test fires on a scrap piece of wood to ensure the gun shoots properly and leaks are resolved.

    These instructions coincide with the following tools only: Paslode F-350S (#501000), Paslode F-350P (#515000) and Paslode F-250S-PP (#500855). For additional information, contact an authorized service center. You can find this and other Paslode nail gun repair kits on Nail Gun Depot.

     

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

    Read More
  • How To Find The Correct Air Staples For A Staple Gun

    Why can’t I order staples for my pneumatic stapler by dimension?

    Unlike nails, staples are often sold by series, which doesn't tell you much about size. Furthermore, staples are not "one-size-fits-most," contrary to most categories of collated nails. Staples are instead measured not only by leg length and wire gauge, but also by crown width.

    Pro Tip: If you’re having trouble deciding on a staple gun, see “Choosing A Staple Gun For Your Project.”

    BeA Heavy Wire Stapler

    Crown Size

    The crown is the bridge, otherwise known as the horizontal part of a staple that joins the legs. Crown sizes are typically segmented into wide, medium and narrow designations. This can become tricky, as some manufacturers measure the inside of the crown, while others measure the outside (or exterior) of the crown.

    Staple crown type can vary by application. For example, some staples come with a flat top, while others have a round or "U-shaped" crown. However, we'll take a closer look at the various crown types in a later article.

    Leg Length

    While a staple series is typically determined by gauge and crown (which we'll cover later in this article), leg length can vary significantly - even within the same series of staple. See the different leg lengths for the 7/16” crown staple, for example, below.

    Staple with measurements

    There are a couple rules of thumb with regard to staple length:

    1. Leg length requirements vary by application type, as well as the base material you are driving the staple into. The staple has to be able to fully penetrate and clasp to form a tight bond.

    2. The longer the staple legs, the greater the hold or withdrawal strength.

    Pro Tip: Never try to force a staple into the wrong tool. Not only can this create a jam, but it could break the staple or damage the tool.

    Getting To The Point

    Most staples have chisel points, which taper to a point on both legs. This lets the staple legs drive directly into the base material.

    Another variation is the divergent-point staple, where the tips taper to opposing points. This forces the legs to bend outward in different directions. Divergent point staples are more difficult to pull out, providing greater holding power.

    Wire Gauge

    As with nails, staples are categorized by different wire gauges or thicknesses. Gauge is determined by the wire diameter, a standard set in the early half of the 20th century by American Wire Gauge standards. It might seem counter-intuitive, but the thinner the wire, the higher the gauge number. The smallest gauge staple wire we carry here at Nail Gun Depot is a 23-gauge staple for upholstery applications, while the largest is 9 gauge for wire fence building.

    Generally speaking, the thicker the wire gauge, the more rugged the application. For finer applications, like fastening upholstery to a furniture frame, a thinner gauge staple is preferable.

    What’s In A Staple Series?

    Finally, let’s talk staple series. Is there a rhyme or reason for the different series numbers?

    In short, yes, it’s true that tool manufacturers want you to use their staples -- and they do make proprietary fasteners to drive the point. Most staple series are determined by the staple's crown size (width) and gauge (thickness).

    One way many manufacturers make staple shopping easier, they may designate a particular "series" of staple that is compatible with their tool. Each staple series makes it easier to find the exact staple you need, without having to know all of the dimensions—or how the crown is measured.

    In order to consistently get the right staples for your tool, rely on the staple gun itself. More often than not, staple dimensions are printed on a staple gun's magazine.

    Types of Air Staple

    Finding The Right Fasteners

    To help you find the right series, we’ve created the Fastener Finder tool on Nail Gun Depot. Just choose your stapler brand/model from the drop-down menu, and we'll do the rest.  Even if you’re using an older model of air stapler, we can help identify the correct staples for your tool.

    Have other questions? Contact us here.

     

    ~ The Nail Gun Depot Team

    Read More

Items 1 to 10 of 74 total

  1. PREVIOUS
  2. Page
  3. 1
  4. 2
  5. 3
  6. 4
  7. 5
  8. ...
  9. of 8
Copyright © 2019 Nail Gun Depot All rights reserved. All trademarks and brands are property of their respective owner | Privacy Policy